Router/Extender/AP/Bridge Help...


G Speed

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I would like to revamp my actual wireless network... house is wired via cat5e.. so gigabit is no problem

 

But I'm having trouble understanding extenders/ap/bridges and what I need to get? Is an AP/Bridge the same?

 

Current Set Up

 

Modem > Cable > Wireless Router > Cable > Switch > To House

 

Basement Wifi is fine, middle floor is so-so

 

Upstairs I have an old router that I have made into an AP.. that also connects my xbox/wdtv box

 

I want to

1. Get Better signal on middle floor

2. Replace AP upstairs/ with Switch attached to some sort of AP or Bridge or Extender?

 

Do I just need two of these?

 

http://www.dlink.com/ca/en/home-solutions/connect/access-points-range-extenders-and-bridges/dap-1360--wireless-n-open-source-access-point-router

 

Use the Wireless N Range Extender (DAP-1360) to create a new wireless network or simply extend your existing wireless network coverage to reach greater distances throughout a home or office.

 

I think I'm just confusing my self? What I'm not looking for is something to pickup existing wireless and just amplify it out

 

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A few thoughts ...

 

First, in networking, wired is ALWAYS better than wireless.    Since your house is already wired with Cat-5e, you should use wired connections whenever possible.    If you need multiple connections at a point where you only have one cable run, just connect the cable to a switch and then the other devices to the same switch.

 

Note that if you want the network to be Gb, ALL switches need to be Gb, as well as your router (if anything is connected to the wired ports on it).

 

What you need is an access point on each floor.    You already have one in the basement (the router), so you just need two for the other two floors (if you need wireless on all floors).   

 

You can re-purpose an old router (or a new one) as an access point, by disabling the router's DHCP server; and connecting them to your network using one of the LAN ports (NOT the WAN port).    You also need to assign it an IP address outside of the main router's DHCP range, but in the same subnet.  You can use the same SSID and password as the main router, but be sure you assign it a different channel.    If your routers all use the 2.4GHz band (if they're B or G routers they do), then only use channels 1, 6, and 11.    Also, don't use any 40MHz channels -- the 20MHz bandwidth is fine, and eliminates overlap issues.

 

It sounds like what you need is two Gb switches [e.g. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122363 ]  .... one each for the middle and top floors ... and a pair of routers to set up as access points (one on the middle and one on the top floor).

 

Then buy some Cat-6 cables to connect your switches to any device you can simply hard-wire ... and you're done  :)

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What he said. I have very little to add to gary's setup, only to say that the access point doesn't even have to have an IP address in the same subnet if you are ok manually changing your pc to an IP in that subnet temporarily to manage them. As long as every wireless access point in the house has the same SSID, encryption type and password, all on different channels (frequencies), wireless devices will seamlessly pick the one that works best for them.

 

Every device possible should have a homerun to the main gigabit switch, failing that, lower bandwidth devices can be connected to the other lan ports on your reprogrammed router access points, especially if you get gigabit capable routers to reprogram. So if you have a currently occupied cat5 jack that is in a perfect place for a wireless access point, there is no reason to buy both a gigabit switch and an access point, just get a gigabit router and reprogram it like gary said and plug both the displaced device and the cable from the switch into the lan ports.

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A few thoughts ...

 

First, in networking, wired is ALWAYS better than wireless.    Since your house is already wired with Cat-5e, you should use wired connections whenever possible.    If you need multiple connections at a point where you only have one cable run, just connect the cable to a switch and then the other devices to the same switch.

 

Note that if you want the network to be Gb, ALL switches need to be Gb, as well as your router (if anything is connected to the wired ports on it).

 

What you need is an access point on each floor.    You already have one in the basement (the router), so you just need two for the other two floors (if you need wireless on all floors).   

 

You can re-purpose an old router (or a new one) as an access point, by disabling the router's DHCP server; and connecting them to your network using one of the LAN ports (NOT the WAN port).    You also need to assign it an IP address outside of the main router's DHCP range, but in the same subnet.  You can use the same SSID and password as the main router, but be sure you assign it a different channel.    If your routers all use the 2.4GHz band (if they're B or G routers they do), then only use channels 1, 6, and 11.    Also, don't use any 40MHz channels -- the 20MHz bandwidth is fine, and eliminates overlap issues.

 

It sounds like what you need is two Gb switches [e.g. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122363 ]  .... one each for the middle and top floors ... and a pair of routers to set up as access points (one on the middle and one on the top floor).

 

Then buy some Cat-6 cables to connect your switches to any device you can simply hard-wire ... and you're done  :)

 

Wireless is just for laptops/cellphones.. everything else is wired

 

and as of right now all switches and routers are gigabit

 

I have already converted a an older router "upstairs" to an AP.. I was just thinking "is there an easier way" lol

 

So I guess the only thing I need is another AP in the middle floor

 

Any recommendations.. everything will all be Wireless-N 2.4ghz, channel? 20 or 40?

 

I'm also trying to figure out why looking at inSSIDer, why my current router is showing max rate 300mb.. but laptop is showing 65mb?

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Get a couple of cheap DD-WRT compatible routers, set them up like Gary said. Use an app like inSSIDer to sniff out what bands are saturated in your area. You can hopefully find a channel that isn't too crowded. Remember that radio signals don't confine themselves to the exact channel you set - they bleed off into other frequencies. So try to avoid overlap of any kind with any other signals if possible. You'll see what I mean when you look at the display in the app.

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As Jonathan noted, you don't actually have to use the same SSID or even the same subnet, but it's far more convenient if they do.    Otherwise you have to manually choose the connection as you walk around the house.

 

Use 20MHz bandwidth channels and you'll have far less chance of any interference between channels or with other 2.4GHz devices.    Using channels 1, 6, and 11 and you'll be fine.

 

Any of the devices suggested above will work fine ... I haven't used the Engenius EAP 300, but the specs are very good and it should be an excellent choice if you need to buy one of your access points.  [http://www.engeniustech.com/business-networking/indoor-access-points-client-bridges/16139-eap300 ]

 

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As Jonathan noted, you don't actually have to use the same SSID or even the same subnet, but it's far more convenient if they do.    Otherwise you have to manually choose the connection as you walk around the house.

 

Use 20MHz bandwidth channels and you'll have far less chance of any interference between channels or with other 2.4GHz devices.    Using channels 1, 6, and 11 and you'll be fine.

 

Any of the devices suggested above will work fine ... I haven't used the Engenius EAP 300, but the specs are very good and it should be an excellent choice if you need to buy one of your access points.  [http://www.engeniustech.com/business-networking/indoor-access-points-client-bridges/16139-eap300 ]

 

Right now i'm trying to figure out why I can't hold 150mbps..

 

It was at 167M link "the router was showing" now it dropped to 65mb?

 

I'm a bit confused with that product to be honest? Up to 300Mbps Wireless Data Rates?

 

10/100M?

 

How?

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Right now i'm trying to figure out why I can't hold 150mbps..

 

It was at 167M link "the router was showing" now it dropped to 65mb?

 

The drop to 65Mb was almost certainly due to dynamic rate scaling -- a feature you can't change.

 

First, you can't get 300Mb without employing channel bonding ... and as I've already noted, I do NOT recommend this, as it significantly increases the likelihood of interference with your other access points, any neighbor's WiFi, or other 2.4GHz devices you may have.    The 20Mb bandwidth is plenty.

 

Second, to get the 150Mb max without bonding requires virtually everything be "perfect" => your wireless device very close to the access point; no interfering wiring or devices; and a virtually perfect "handshake" between the adapter and the access point.   

 

You cannot disable the dynamic rate scaling that 802.11 networks employ (at least not on consumer grade equipment), and the simple fact is that you'll rarely get the maximum rates.    Even with channel bonding, it's rare to get above 200Mb; and without it, about 100Mb is the maximum realistic rate you're likely to get.  65Mb is actually quite good for a WiFi connection unless you're VERY close to the access point.

 

And of course if you're connecting to an 802.11g (or b) adapter, you'll be limited to those maximums as well ... but that's apparently not the case here, since you're getting rates above the "g" threshold.

 

 

 

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Right now i'm trying to figure out why I can't hold 150mbps..

 

It was at 167M link "the router was showing" now it dropped to 65mb?

 

The drop to 65Mb was almost certainly due to dynamic rate scaling -- a feature you can't change.

 

First, you can't get 300Mb without employing channel bonding ... and as I've already noted, I do NOT recommend this, as it significantly increases the likelihood of interference with your other access points, any neighbor's WiFi, or other 2.4GHz devices you may have.    The 20Mb bandwidth is plenty.

 

Second, to get the 150Mb max without bonding requires virtually everything be "perfect" => your wireless device very close to the access point; no interfering wiring or devices; and a virtually perfect "handshake" between the adapter and the access point.   

 

You cannot disable the dynamic rate scaling that 802.11 networks employ (at least not on consumer grade equipment), and the simple fact is that you'll rarely get the maximum rates.    Even with channel bonding, it's rare to get above 200Mb; and without it, about 100Mb is the maximum realistic rate you're likely to get.  65Mb is actually quite good for a WiFi connection unless you're VERY close to the access point.

 

And of course if you're connecting to an 802.11g (or b) adapter, you'll be limited to those maximums as well ... but that's apparently not the case here, since you're getting rates above the "g" threshold.

 

Odd thing was it was showing 1+5 "bonding".. while it was at 167M... and laptop was showing 150mb... than all of sudden channel 5 went bye bye.. went back to 65mb..

 

I'm about 6 feet from the AP?

 

neighbours around the house are far enough to not interfere to much

1 is on Channel 11 @ -96dbm

2 is on Channel 7 @ -92dbm

 

Basement Router is 11 + 7 @ - 76dbm

Set to G + N

 

The Router I'm connect to is Channel 1 @ -44dbm

Set to N only

 

???

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Odds are pretty good that the initial connection was at 40Mb bandwidth (bonded), but that interference was detected so it dropped the bonding ... at least that's how it SHOULD have worked.

 

As I noted above, I would set the router to never use bonding => a bit slower maximum potential, but much more reliable in most circumstances.

 

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Odds are pretty good that the initial connection was at 40Mb bandwidth (bonded), but that interference was detected so it dropped the bonding ... at least that's how it SHOULD have worked.

 

As I noted above, I would set the router to never use bonding => a bit slower maximum potential, but much more reliable in most circumstances.

 

I'm assuming then I should set it to 20mhz?

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Odds are pretty good that the initial connection was at 40Mb bandwidth (bonded), but that interference was detected so it dropped the bonding ... at least that's how it SHOULD have worked.

 

As I noted above, I would set the router to never use bonding => a bit slower maximum potential, but much more reliable in most circumstances.

 

I'm assuming then I should set it to 20mhz?

 

Yes, that's correct.  20MHz = single channel;  40Mhz = channel bonding

 

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