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PhreshJive's 8 HotSwap Bay U-NAS NSC-800 Low-Power mITX Silent Virtualized Build

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Nice build log!


Did you ever finished the case build?

Any chance you can provide photos of the final results, like the back panel and the motherboard set up?


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FML! Still sitting open and haven't closed her up yet as am renovating a room in my house where an Epson 8350 projector is now ceiling mounted along with this build. 


I've run into a snag related to the home theater and intend on posting today on AVSForums where hopefully someone can help me out - not related to this build (which still is working flawlessly) but running a 25 ft Monoprice 22AWG HDMI from one side of the room with the AV receiver to the other.  On the opposite side of the receiver, have a powered HDMI switch along with a Slimport to HDMI connector for my Nexus 5 and a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI connector for my Surface Pro 3.  I've now returned 3 items in a short period of time (2 x non-powered HDMI switches, 1 x 26AWG 25ft cable) on my Amazon Prime sub that triggered a return warning email - and all over it not working.  Thought at first it was because it was a non-powered HDMI switch, then thought it might the cable. Now lamenting over whether the Balum HDMI route will solve my issue until someone confirms on AVSForums, not ordering anything else.


Using the same 22AWG HDMI cable to the projector and it works perfectly.  Both the Slimport and MiniDisplayPort work fine when connected directly to receiver.  Did a ton of research and can't find any info anywhere. 


Ask me why I wanted the ability of being able to connect my SP3 and N5 when I have a VM running 8.1 and I couldn't tell you at this point.  Part of reasoning was hated the lag from Chromecast (N5/Pandora) and the RTV3000 (N5/SP3) that were bought in case I wanted to play an emulator.  But after all this hassle of trying to get it to work, I'll be damned if it doesn't.


seigneur78: I 100% am planning on doing so.  Just have to solve said issue / obsession so I can complete the reno, and easily complete this build.


Ice_Black: I can only say this motherboard is vetted for VMWare.  Tried two cards that I researched as functional and both worked.  Wanted the fanless variant for noise (or lack thereof) purposes.


doublebubble: 1) Wouldn't do that 2) That is my plan - bought one of these:  though toaster-style case material isn't magnetic.  Chosen CPU fan clears perfectly but my plan is to cutout and place Silverstone Tek over top 3) Thought of it but it really is a tight fit.

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I run a 35 ft monoprice HDMI cable but no HDMI adapters except a port saver and it works without issue.

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Have you tried a powered HDMI switch?    These are FAR more reliable than passive switches -- and according to your note you tried 2 switches, but both were passive.


I assume your receiver has switched inputs ... have you confirmed that both the SP3 and N5 work if they're connected directly to one of the receiver's inputs?    Clearly that's not where you want them to be; but that will confirm there's no more fundamental issue ... as long as they work fine there they'll almost certainly work if you use a powered switch.


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Hey Gary: Had initially purchased

1) Cable Matters Micro USB SlimPort (MyDP) to HDMI 6 Foot Cable with 6 Foot USB Charging Cable

2) Monoprice Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable

3) Panlong HDMI switch 

4) Monoprice 25ft 26AWG cable.


The receiver is a Denon AVR-1913 receiver. Both SlimPort and Mini DisplayPort connected to the Panlong and it didn't work. Connected directly to the receiver worked/works just fine.  Then thought it was the quality of the passive switch so returned it and got the Sewell Direct one which produced the same result.  I then thought that it must need to be active, returned the Sewell and went with an active Kinivo one.  Same result.  I then figured maybe it was the 26AWG cable, swapped (as in initiated yet another return) for the 22AWG one, the exact one I am running from the receiver to the projector to reach the same result.


Mind numbing first world problem.

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HDMI switching can often be troublesome -- some receivers don't do this well (either lose HDCP or lose the "handshake" with the display device); and some switches have similar issues.


I'd spend a few $$ and try the following:


(1)  Get an active HDMI cable (Redmere) and see if using that instead of your current one resolves this issue altogether.  http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2


(2)  If that doesn't fix things, then connect one of the cables to a separate input on the receiver, using that for the SP3 and/or N5.    If that works, see if both the SP3 and N5 work if you use a switch for those, while using the receiver's switch to switch between the primary feed and the portable devices.


I suspect the Redmere cable will resolve this, since these cables are much more tolerant of long distance HDMI runs.


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Alright, a quick update: So the 22AWG cable coupled with the powered HDMI switch was the fix at least for the Mini DisplayPort issue - now I have a visual on the projector from the Surface Pro 3.  The SlimPort for the Nexus 5 still didn't work.  I did some research and found out that Analogix is the company behind SlimPort.  Their SP1003 variant was the model of choice.  They recently though released an updated model, the SP1004.  I am the guinea pig on Amazon.com and will be the first reviewer once I receive it using one day shipping tomorrow. 


Had initially setup everything wirelessly using Miracast (RTV3000) for the SP3 (and technically N5) and with a Chromecast (for the N5) but despise the lag from both.


Once this hurdle is hopefully over, will finish off renovation, though with greater difficulty as am running that 22AWG HDMI under a baseboard and liked the size of the non-functional 26AWG better from a logistical perspective, complete this build and post the pics!. 

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...  am running that 22AWG HDMI under a baseboard and liked the size of the non-functional 26AWG better from a logistical perspective ...


You might want to try the RedMere cable ... it's MUCH thinner and lighter, and is rated for longer distances, so it SHOULD work even better than the 22awg cable.    I'd order it directly from Monoprice, however ... just in case it doesn't do the job and you need to return it  :)  [No need to get ever further into Amazon's "bad returner" list.]


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garycase: Ordering the Redmere today from Monoprice as even the latest and greatest SP1004 from Analogix still doesn't function over the 25 ft 22AWG run.  Meanwhile the Mini DisplayPort to HDMI for the Surface Pro 3 does. 


Reached out to Analogix via email and haven't heard back.  If the Redmere route doesn't work, I'll give up on the SlimPort aspect of the project, close up, then finish off this build. Annoyed though at this point.  Amazed that I couldn't find a single other person who wanted to do same.  Granted running a virtualized HTPC and probably at the upper echelon of geekiness on this front... Oh well.

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If the Redmere route doesn't work, I'll give up on the SlimPort aspect of the project, close up, then finish off this build. Annoyed though at this point.


Why not run a conduit so you can pull new cable if you need to? I did this with my media room:


- 1/2" conduit to each speaker location

- 2" conduit (central vac tubing) to the TV

- 2" conduit (central vac again) to the future projector location.


then shop vac a string through each (works really well) and tape the string to the tube at both ends.

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Walls are both gypsum board plaster and sheet rock; thick as anything.  A 1962 build is not conducive to running a modern setup and as much as I would like to run conduits for future runs, I'm stuck fishing Plenum Cat6 and other cables through a crown molding to hopefully future proof using Balums. 


Also to be noted, I received a response from Analogix.  The SP1004 supports passive cables up to 25 ft.  Based on that info, I decided to connect the 25 ft 22AWG cable to the SP1004 and then to an LCD TV.  It works.  Now at least I can close up and finish off this build. 


As an aside, I also ordered a Corsair H100i to see what sort of maneuverability I can get in this case instead of having to cut out part of the top of the case.


Then comes the fun part of diagnosing what is causing the issue / what settings to change around in either the Denon AVR-1913 or the Epson 8350. Ughhh!

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Hey -- if everything just "worked" out of the box, we wouldn't have all these interesting discussions to find work-a-rounds  :)


... but it'd sure be nice if it all did !!    Don't know how long you've been using HDMI switching receivers, but 4-5 years ago it was a BEAR to find one that worked without losing sync, losing HDCP, or some other frustrating anomaly that would result in the inability to play protected content.    I think most new receivers have finally got this right ... but it was a real hassle to find a combination that worked with the earlier receivers.


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Once signal from my Slimport adapter goes over a 25ft HDMI cable into the Denon, signal loss occurs regardless of what input selected on Denon,  updated to latest firmware.  No issue if 25ft is connected directly to projector input. Awaiting delivery of an HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater from Monoprice based on feedback received on AVSForum.


Ended up ordering a Corsair H100 since tubing was smaller in diameter. Will attempt mount of the radiator on exterior of case by feeding it through the slot where the motherboard plate used to go and use the Noctua fans I have in their existing location. Would hopefully alleviate issue of having to cut top of case for airflow to CPU.


Will also be bumping up the main SSD drive. Finding 128gb tight to manage taking into account other VMs I'm thinking of running. Will probably just wait until Black Friday.

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So solution for now is to use a Monoprice HDMI Splitter (Part # 108204) to handle the HDCP.  Sent the following email to Denon that outlines all the steps I took come to a workaround.  Tested using my receiver and the latest iteration purchased for diagnostic purposes at a local retailer.


The Corsair H100 should be arriving tomorrow.  Can't wait to finish off the build.


The Email to Denon:

- Purchased both a Denon AVR-1913 and AVRS900W receivers and updated to latest firmware

- Purchased a Analogix SlimPort SP1004 adapter, latest device for SlimPort standard by Analogix, list of supported devices available here: http://www.slimportconnect.com/slimport-supported-devices/

- Purchased a Google (LG) Nexus 5 phone, a supported device of the SlimPort standard, running the latest publicly available version of Android 4.4.4

- Purchased a Monoprice 25ft 22AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable (Part # 103990)

- Purchased a Monoprice Mini HDMI Splitter with 3D Support (Part # 108204)

- Purchased a Monoprice HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (Part # 2849)



- Both the Denon AVR-1913 and AVRS900W cannot output video when the SlimPort device is connected using a 25ft 22AWG HDMI cable

- Tested same 25ft HDMI cable connected directly to an input of my Epson 8350 projector with same SlimPort adapter with no connectivity issue

- Tested same 25ft HDMI cable connected directly to an LCD TV and the SlimPort adapter with no connectivity issue

- Tested same SlimPort adapter connected with a shorter length (3 ft) HDMI cable to both Denon receivers with no connectivity issue

- Tested using the 25ft HDMI cable and the Repeater using the SlimPort adapter to both receivers with no signal

- Tested using the 25ft HDMI cable plugged into one of the outputs of the HDMI Splitter with the SlimPort plugged into the input to the Denon receivers with no connectivity issues



The Monoprice HDMI Splitter is handling HDCP and works over the 25ft cable run.  An issue therefore exists in present Denon firmware that cannot read the HDCP signal from the SlimPort device when run directly over the 25ft cable.  Discussion with Analogix stated that the SP1004 device is compatible with a passive 25ft HDMI cable. 


Kindly resolve in a firmware revision for both models.


UPDATE: So here is the image of how everything needs to be connected in order to function the way I envisioned: Having one 25ft HDMI cable run in-wall / baseboard and having an HDMI switcher on the other side of the room to alternate between my Surface Pro 3 and Nexus 5:



- Blue HDMI from Input of Kinivo switch to SlimPort to MicroUSB Adapter

- White HDMI Monoprice MiniDisplayPort to HDMI in Input of Kinivo

- Green HDMI from Output of Kinivo switch to Input of Monoprice 1x2 HDMI Splitter

- Black 25 ft HDMI from Output1 of Splitter to Receiver



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phreshjive, could you please elaborate a little on what sort of modifications that is needed to fit the mobo? It seems you're the only one that has documented a build like this.


I really fancy the NSC-800 and the E3C224D4I-14S, but if it's too much hassle it might not be worth it, or I might need to get someone handy to help me out.


Any tips?

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Hello...Can anyone please explain exactly why you used the DROK DC Converter Voltage Regulator for this build? Also can you please tell me exactly where the connections are made to on the motherboard and the power supply? Also are there any seetings on the voltage converter that need to be adjusted to specifcs? Your writeup unfortunately did not explain how and where these connections were made. Thanks in advance...

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