SERIOUSLY! PLEX, hosted on unRAID...is driving me #%&* NUTZ!!

[John_M]

Bios version usually pops up during POST.

 

Perhaps it's set to fast boot or to display a Gigabyte logo instead.

[CDLehner]

Bios version usually pops up during POST.

 

Perhaps it's set to fast boot or to display a Gigabyte logo instead.

 

It does give the Gigabyte splash instead.

 

EDIT- disabled it; BIOS is F3.

[John_M]

F3 - close but no cigar! You will need to re-flash to F4J.

 

Your board supports three methods, Q-Flash, @-BIOS and DOS Flash. Forget @-BIOS because that's for people with Windows installed. DOS Flash is the "traditional way" that needs you to prepare a DOS boot device. Q-Flash is the one you want. So note down your current BIOS settings and prepare a USB stick that contains only the unzipped BIOS file. Read the instructions I pointed you to earlier. Then, with your unRAID flash safely out of the way perform the update, taking heed of the warnings. When it's done you'll need to go through your BIOS settings again.

 

Once that's done, and everything still works with your current CPU, you can go ahead and fit the new CPU. But do yourself a favour and get all the things you'll need first. You'll need the appropriately rated cooler. If it's a new one it should come with thermal compound already applied. If it's a pre-used one you'll need a tube of good quality thermal compound. You'll need to remove any old compound sticking to the replacement CPU and you'll probably want to clean up the old CPU so have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol ready and some paper tissues. Don't try to re-use old thermal compound and make sure all traces of the old stuff are removed.

 

It should be pretty obvious how the cooler latches on to the blue mounting frame surrounding the CPU socket - basically, you hook one end over the tab, then the other, then swing the lever to tighten it down. To remove it, just reverse the process. Wipe the gunk off the CPU and notice that one corner has an identifying mark.

 

The CPU socket is a zero insertion force type. Swing the locking lever up and the CPU just lifts out. Don't touch the pins. The new CPU should just drop straight it once you've identified and lined up the same corner. Absolutely no force is required - its own weight is more than enough. If it won't fit you've either got it the wrong way round or it has a bent pin - though you should already have checked for damage when you received it. Once the new CPU is in place swing the locking lever back down.

 

Fit the upgraded cooler - if it's pre-used you'll need to clean it first and apply a small amount of thermal compound to the top of the CPU. Make sure it's firmly attached and remember to plug in the fan lead. Wrap the old Athlon in the packaging from the Phenom - or in aluminium kitchen foil - and keep it safe. You might try to sell it but I suggest you hang on to it at least until you're happy that there's no problem with the replacement.

 

That's it, really. Power up and check that the CPU fan is working. Go into the BIOS. Check the settings. Boot unRAID and enjoy life.

 

[CDLehner]

F3 - close but no cigar! You will need to re-flash to F4J.

 

Your board supports three methods, Q-Flash, @-BIOS and DOS Flash. Forget @-BIOS because that's for people with Windows installed. DOS Flash is the "traditional way" that needs you to prepare a DOS boot device. Q-Flash is the one you want. So note down your current BIOS settings and prepare a USB stick that contains only the unzipped BIOS file. Read the instructions I pointed you to earlier. Then, with your unRAID flash safely out of the way perform the update, taking heed of the warnings. When it's done you'll need to go through your BIOS settings again.

 

Once that's done, and everything still works with your current CPU, you can go ahead and fit the new CPU. But do yourself a favour and get all the things you'll need first. You'll need the appropriately rated cooler. If it's a new one it should come with thermal compound already applied. If it's a pre-used one you'll need a tube of good quality thermal compound. You'll need to remove any old compound sticking to the replacement CPU and you'll probably want to clean up the old CPU so have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol ready and some paper tissues. Don't try to re-use old thermal compound and make sure all traces of the old stuff are removed.

 

It should be pretty obvious how the cooler latches on to the blue mounting frame surrounding the CPU socket - basically, you hook one end over the tab, then the other, then swing the lever to tighten it down. To remove it, just reverse the process. Wipe the gunk off the CPU and notice that one corner has an identifying mark.

 

The CPU socket is a zero insertion force type. Swing the locking lever up and the CPU just lifts out. Don't touch the pins. The new CPU should just drop straight it once you've identified and lined up the same corner. Absolutely no force is required - its own weight is more than enough. If it won't fit you've either got it the wrong way round or it has a bent pin - though you should already have checked for damage when you received it. Once the new CPU is in place swing the locking lever back down.

 

Fit the upgraded cooler - if it's pre-used you'll need to clean it first and apply a small amount of thermal compound to the top of the CPU. Make sure it's firmly attached and remember to plug in the fan lead. Wrap the old Athlon in the packaging from the Phenom - or in aluminium kitchen foil - and keep it safe. You might try to sell it but I suggest you hang on to it at least until you're happy that there's no problem with the replacement.

 

That's it, really. Power up and check that the CPU fan is working. Go into the BIOS. Check the settings. Boot unRAID and enjoy life.

 

John...thanks very much! You've over-simplified for me (for example...I built the damn thing to begin with, so I know how to insert a CPU; but I asked to be treated like a 5 year-old, and it's better than the alternative...lol). So I'm sincere.

 

This is thorough, and should eliminate a lot of little follow-ups...along the way.

 

Barring any complications or questions...I'll check back, after I've upgraded the BIOS; and we can talk about "appropriate" coolers 

[John_M]

OK. Good luck. There isn't a great deal to discuss when choosing a cooler. It needs to satisfy two requirements only. Firstly it needs to fit. By that I mean it has to match the socket and also fit in the case without fouling the lid or any other component. Secondly is has to be able to cool the processor adequately. In your case it's a 95W TDP device. Anything else is personal choice. FWIW I prefer fans that blow downwards as they also cool the CPU's power regulator components and they also fit a low profile case better. I also prefer 4-wire fans if the motherboard has the ability to control them because they don't run at full speed all the time. I avoid fans with sleeve bearings because they don't last as long as ball bearings or hydro-dynamic bearings.

 

[CDLehner]

OK...I did say, barring any complications.

 

So...here's the PDF for Q-flashing the BIOS http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/images/utility_qflash.pdf

 

I downloaded the update, and unzipped/saved it to...a newly FAT32 formatted, usb drive.

 

The contents of my drive, look like this

 

I've tried inserting the usb drive, both before and after I'm in the Q-flash utility (as the instructions are a little ambiguous about that); and neither has worked. Q-flash doesn't see the usb drive, as an option to update from. 

NEVER MIND

 

[CDLehner]

OK...I did say, barring any complications.

 

So...here's the PDF for Q-flashing the BIOS http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/images/utility_qflash.pdf

 

I downloaded the update, and unzipped/saved it to...a newly FAT32 formatted, usb drive.

 

The contents of my drive, look like this

 

I've tried inserting the usb drive, both before and after I'm in the Q-flash utility (as the instructions are a little ambiguous about that); and neither has worked. Q-flash doesn't see the usb drive, as an option to update from. 

NEVER MIND

 

Hmm. Was able to update the BIOS successfully...but now I have, what I think is a small and simple issue; on boot-up.

 

Posting at Gigabyte. Thanks

 

Back in business, with updated BIOS! 

[CDLehner]

It should be pretty obvious how the cooler latches on to the blue mounting frame surrounding the CPU socket

 

Yes; but how do I identify the "right" size? In layman's terms...so the clips, fit where the blue mounting-frame is?

 

I want to get this show on the road! 

[John_M]

You want one that's compatible with your Socket AM3 Phenom II X6 1045T. Put that into eBay's or Amazon's search tool along with cooler and see what matches. I thought you had already located a suitable one. Was it too big for your case?

 

As far as coolers are concerned there's not much difference between sockets AM2, AM2+, AM3 and AM3+ so if you can't find one for your specific model you could get one for one of the current range of AMD FX CPUs that has a TDP of 95W.

 

Here's one that will do the job, but check the size. It's the stock AMD cooler for your Phenom II.

 

[switchman]

Seriously, finding an AM3 compatible cooler is not hard.  Make sure the one you select is capable of 95 watts TDP and verify it is AM3.

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008000%20600035298&IsNodeId=1&srchInDesc=am3&bop=And&hisInDesc=am3&Page=1&PageSize=90

 

or

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_3?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Ck%3AAM3+cooler&page=3&keywords=AM3+cooler&ie=UTF8&qid=1462671704&spIA=B00SN6VN7W,B00ZXMZSX4,B00SN7CGAO

 

I would get one that uses a standard size fan.

[interwebtech]

coolers are sold as compatible with a certain socket type. CPU is irrelevant in that equation. The cooler must mate up with the hardware on the motherboard.

[CDLehner]

Good?

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100008000%20600035298%204814%20600035365%20600035370%20600035373%20600035374%20600110699%20600291732%20600291733%20600335651%20600360497%20600362366%20600371997%20600418162%20600418200%20600456361%20600456464%20600470434

[CDLehner]

No brainer?

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

[switchman]

you need to look at the dimensions.  When I looked at the picture of your case, I don't think you have clearance.

 

120 x 80 x 159 mm (4.7 x 3.1 x 6.3 in)

[CDLehner]

you need to look at the dimensions.  When I looked at the picture of your case, I don't think you have clearance.

 

120 x 80 x 159 mm (4.7 x 3.1 x 6.3 in)

 

K

[CDLehner]

you need to look at the dimensions.  When I looked at the picture of your case, I don't think you have clearance.

 

120 x 80 x 159 mm (4.7 x 3.1 x 6.3 in)

 

K

 

My case is 2U; or about 90mm.

 

This would work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9ZH3N86876

 

And I guess I have to look, for slim options?

 

Etc http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103177

 

I'm throwing darts at a board here. Anyone got a suggestion; all ears.

[switchman]

You also need to verify if your MB has a 3 or 4 pin cpu fan header.  The manual suggest its a 3 pin, but to be sure, look at the actual MB.

[CHBMB]

I find this site quite useful to work out which cooler will fit.  I know you're not in the UK but it does give a lot of measurements for clearances etc. So may help you narrow down a model.

 

QuietPC

[John_M]

You also need to verify if your MB has a 3 or 4 pin cpu fan header.  The manual suggest its a 3 pin, but to be sure, look at the actual MB.

 

It doesn't actually matter. A 4-pin fan will work with a 3-pin motherboard and vice versa. It will simply run at full speed, which is exactly what a 3-pin fan would do. So there's no need for further complication. Just choose one that fits and can cool a 95W TDP CPU. That means one with a fan that blows downwards - the ones that blow horizontally will be too tall. I explained all this earlier and gave a link to a decently priced adequate cooler that would do the job if it isn't too tall.

 

 

[CDLehner]

I explained all this earlier and gave a link to a decently priced adequate cooler that would do the job if it isn't too tall.

 

This one http://www.amazon.com/AMD-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-Computer/dp/B00OZQU7BM is too tall.

[saarg]

I explained all this earlier and gave a link to a decently priced adequate cooler that would do the job if it isn't too tall.

 

This one http://www.amazon.com/AMD-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-Computer/dp/B00OZQU7BM is too tall.

Isn't 2.3 inches low enough for a 2u case?

[JonathanM]

I explained all this earlier and gave a link to a decently priced adequate cooler that would do the job if it isn't too tall.

 

This one http://www.amazon.com/AMD-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-Computer/dp/B00OZQU7BM is too tall.

Isn't 2.3 inches low enough for a 2u case?

Yes.

[CDLehner]

^^ Oh...that's the height? OK; price is sure right...though I was willing, to spend more. Maybe play with over-clocking, etc. But one step at a time.

 

Thanks

[John_M]

I'm not so sure about overclocking. I suspect your next upgrade will be in the RAM department. 2 GB is getting a bit tight, especially since the whole point of this exercise is to get Plex running smoothly. Think about upgrading to 4 or even 8 GB.

[CDLehner]

I'm not so sure about overclocking. I suspect your next upgrade will be in the RAM department. 2 GB is getting a bit tight, especially since the whole point of this exercise is to get Plex running smoothly. Think about upgrading to 4 or even 8 GB.

 

Thanks John; I agree, and was already thinking about it. Want to order, with the heatsink/fan...to save on s&h.

 

I mean someone said earlier...wayyy back, amongst the 25 pages, lol; that RAM wasn't as important...as CPU for the PLEX transcoding. But I think, WTH; new CPU, new cooler...let's pump-up the memory while we're at it.

 

This is what I have now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231185 (wow...has it really been, 6 years since my build! ); do I need to do anything, other than 240-pin DDR3...in terms of matching?