Downloaded the manual for this board, and on page 32 there's an option to "Select a primary VGA" => with the option shown as PCIe for default.    I suspect this has to be changed to the integrated adapter for the HDMI output to work.

 

It would seem you're going to need to find a VGA-capable display to set this up.

 

... or an adapter like this:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDFGK1W/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=&gclid=CNXk_P-9qtECFVA6gQoduNsOFw

 

There is no flash screen nothing I have it hooked up to a vga and an hdmi and literally nothing. Does not even say the bios version

...  I have it hooked up to a vga and an hdmi ...

 

Only connect ONE display to ONE of the ports -- preferably the VGA port.  [i thought you didn't have a VGA display??]

 

What processor did you buy ??

I found an old projector in the garage with vga cable, i3 processor

I3 6100 lga1151

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=2MN-0004-00002

Okay ... just wanted to be sure you weren't using a CPU without integrated graphics.

 

It's POSSIBLE that the board is defaulting to PCIe graphics and NOT auto-selecting => seems unlikely, but definitely possible.

 

If that's the case, you need to install a PCIe graphics card (ANY inexpensive card will do) so you can get to the BIOS and enable the on-board graphics.    There are plenty available on e-bay for < $15 ... and plenty of new ones in the $30 range on Amazon or Newegg.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Passive-Graphics-01G-P3-1313-KR/dp/B004KABG1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483603295&sr=8-1&keywords=PCIe+video

 

It's also possible that the system works with the VGA output, but isn't working with your projector (these can be tricky sometimes to set up, so it may be a compatibility issue and not that the port isn't working).

 

Bottom line:  I'd try to find a VGA display first; but if that's not easily possible, just get an inexpensive video card so you can at least get to the BIOS and see if there's just a setting that needs changed to work with the integrated graphics.

 

 

By the way, there are a LOT of posts in various forums r.e. problems getting an HDMI output from an Intel HD 530 graphics adapter (which is what you have).    I suspect your VGA output is working; but without a monitor to test that with there's no way to be certain (unless you're confident the projector is working and compatible).    The other alternative is to get an inexpensive card, as I noted above.

 

Ok still can't access the bios for this stupid thing I have tried several vga monitors as well as the suggested video card. I have tried using the vga, hdmi and the dvi connection on the graphics card and still nothing

 

I RMA the motherboard,CPU and the ram and still cannot access the bios on this stupid motherboard does not look like the motherboard pins are bent

 

Can anyone please help me

ok i got the beast running but i cannot access the bios and there is no video through the hdmi port

How do you know you got it running if there is no video? Maybe it isn't even POSTing.

What Motherboard did you end up purchasing?  You started with an ASRock C236 WSI but indicated you were looking for a different board.

 

I have the ASRock C236 WSI, Xeon E3-1245 V5 CPU and 32 GB Crucial ECC RAM.  Like your i3 CPU, the Xeon also has the 530 integrated graphics.

 

I initially had video output problems as well and could not get into BIOS, but, it turned out to be due to three bent CPU pins in upper left corner of CPU socket (see https://lime-technology.com/forum/index.php?topic=55087.0).  They were hard to spot at first.  Once the pins were straightened, the VGA video output from the board worked and I was able to get into the BIOS.

 

Have you contacted your MB manufacturer?  It was ASRock that pointed me in the direction of looking for bent CPU pins (I know you stated this is not your problem) based on my no video problem description.  Perhaps your MB manufacturer has an idea.

Try resetting CMOS.

I remember when you bought that bracket -- in fact, I had bookmarked it when I saw your original link, as I planned to use it the next time I did a mini-ITX build.    But I also thought $16.99 was steep -- it's definitely nice to see it down to $8.99, which is not only very reasonable, but low enough that I decided to replace the bracket in my current Q25B with one "just because"    [Ordered it right after I posted the note above.]

 

So if $16.99 is steep, what would you consider $65?

https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Bracket-RL-PP08B/dp/B01BYB33J8

 

Seriously, for 8.99 i might have bought it just to have around for the extra space, but at $65, not a chance in hell.

I remember when you bought that bracket -- in fact, I had bookmarked it when I saw your original link, as I planned to use it the next time I did a mini-ITX build.    But I also thought $16.99 was steep -- it's definitely nice to see it down to $8.99, which is not only very reasonable, but low enough that I decided to replace the bracket in my current Q25B with one "just because"    [Ordered it right after I posted the note above.]

 

So if $16.99 is steep, what would you consider $65?

https://www.amazon.ca/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Bracket-RL-PP08B/dp/B01BYB33J8

 

Seriously, for 8.99 i might have bought it just to have around for the extra space, but at $65, not a chance in hell.

 

$65!!!! WTH.  It's still $8.99 at Amazon U.S.  I guess in Canada they really, really want their Silverstone SFX adapter and few are available. 

If you're at all interested in the bracket, I'd do a "chat" with Amazon customer service and point out the insane discrepancy between the Canadian price and the US price.    That has GOT to be a mistake !!  ... and I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon would sell you one for FAR less.

 

If you're at all interested in the bracket, I'd do a "chat" with Amazon customer service and point out the insane discrepancy between the Canadian price and the US price.    That has GOT to be a mistake !!  ... and I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon would sell you one for FAR less.

 

I'm not THAT interested.

Is the the 12v atx connection supposed  to be connected to the power supply there was no cord and I cannot see any clips to unconnected from the the main harness to motherboard .the power supply came with no connection for ot

Ok got the atx 12v cord  issue taken care of but it did not fix my problem, i also noticed that the usb keyboard is not getting power i plug it in an and press the cap lock no light, i plug it into any other usb other then one in the motherboard the cap lock light light comes on

If you're at all interested in the bracket, I'd do a "chat" with Amazon customer service and point out the insane discrepancy between the Canadian price and the US price.    That has GOT to be a mistake !!  ... and I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon would sell you one for FAR less.

 

I'm not THAT interested.

 

Your choice.  Last time I spent 5 minutes on a chat to point out how much higher their price was on an item (compared to other sellers), they sent me the item for free as a courtesy    (It was only a $15 item)

 

On 11/24/2016 at 9:26 AM, HellDiverUK said:

I'd also recommend swapping out the 140mm fan in the front, while also losing the dust filter.  I also tend to not use the top fan, it's not at all required for a NAS box.  I've had great results from the Noctua NF P14s Redux 1200 http://noctua.at/en/nf-p14s-redux-1200-pwm fans, which are quiet and plenty of airflow. 

Sorry for the necro but I have question:

I have the case with stock fans but dont yet know if its worth changing to lower HDD temp. But the question is:

Do you HAVE to remove the dust filter when you change the front fan, or is it just something you choose to do?

5 hours ago, Mihle said:

Do you HAVE to remove the dust filter when you change the front fan, or is it just something you choose to do?

I cannot answer for HellDiverUK, but I replaced both fans (with Cougar fans) in the PC-Q25B and DID NOT remove the dust filters.  HDD temps dropped a little but I have no idea if removal of the filters would result in lower temps.  The system in the PC-Q25B case is in my basement and it is plenty cool down there.  HDD temps are in the mid 20s to low 30s C in normal use and can inch up into the high 30s during a parity check.  I am not worried about those temps.  😁

I've never used the dust filter, it's still attached to the stock fan in a box somewhere.  As it's the only fan in the case, that makes it positive pressure, so there's basically zero dust buildup.  There's perhaps a very light dusting on the sides of the drives, but really nothing to be concerned about.

Edited December 3, 20223 yr by HellDiverUK