OK, everything's been good *UNTIL* I went to put my last drive in.

 

As it was beginning the rebuild, post format, it started to throw errors.  This is after preclear passes and everything.

 

My guess is that I tweaked the cable as I put in the drive.  Damn it's frustrating.

 

I recommend that we put a body part belonging to whatever idiot engineer proposed these totally crappy connectors.

 

Wholly

In the "Good News" department, I have to give a big thumbs up to Samsung EcoGreen F2 1.5T drives.  Quiet, not blazingly fast, but the most useful thing is they run REALLY cool.  About 10C less than all my other drives.  26+ hours of preclear and it never broke 26C. (I did have two of them going at the same time) 

 

So, if anyone's having temperature problems, these drives might be the way to go.

 

Parity ran about 55m/sec for most of the drive.  Maybe down 3-5M from the WD Black that was in there.

 

Wholly

What was the ambient (room) temp at the time of the test?

In the "Good News" department, I have to give a big thumbs up to Samsung EcoGreen F2 1.5T drives.  Quiet, not blazingly fast, but the most useful thing is they run REALLY cool.  About 10C less than all my other drives.  26+ hours of preclear and it never broke 26C. (I did have two of them going at the same time) 

 

So, if anyone's having temperature problems, these drives might be the way to go.

 

Parity ran about 55m/sec for most of the drive.  Maybe down 3-5M from the WD Black that was in there.

 

Wholly

 

Frankly, I do not trust the temps from the Samsung drives.  The one I have registers almost 10C lower than any other drive in my system.  That can't be anywhere close to right!  It is not in a particularly cool area and it is not getting any more or less airflow than the rest of the drives.  I think to get an fair reading on the Samsung drives you have to add 5-10C to be close.

In the "Good News" department, I have to give a big thumbs up to Samsung EcoGreen F2 1.5T drives.  Quiet, not blazingly fast, but the most useful thing is they run REALLY cool.  About 10C less than all my other drives.  26+ hours of preclear and it never broke 26C. (I did have two of them going at the same time) 

 

So, if anyone's having temperature problems, these drives might be the way to go.

 

My two Samsung EcoGreen F2 also show about 10C less than my other six drives (mix 1.5TB and 2TB of Seagate and WD).

And also a good 10C below ambient when I first start the array.

In short, in my experience the Samsung temps are rather suspect...

Same with my samsungs... they always start below room temp.

What was the ambient (room) temp at the time of the test?

 

Would have been about 21C.  I'm about into an hour of my post upgrades parity check and the Samsungs are sitting at 21, while the WD/Hitachis are all 29-34.  When they were under preclear load they never climbed above 26 and that was sitting on the counter with no airflow.

The one thing I do know is that I can stand to touch the samsungs while the WDs are painful!

 

(and I do agree that the location of the sensor is a HUGE deal)

I can't believe no one wants to help "train" an engineer about good cabling...

From the information you provided, it's perfectly clear the temps reported by the Samsung drives are wrong. Now it's a matter of how much are they off.

I can't believe no one wants to help "train" an engineer about good cabling...

 

I replaced all SATA cables with cables with locking/latching connectors. Not all cards support the lock, but the drives do. I then used cable ties to keep the cables in place, so they can't move around.

That's what I was going to say...just get locking SATA cables.

 

On a side note, I actually broke the plastic casing around one end of one of my (non-locking) SATA cables the other day.  The metal connectors still seem to be fine, but I'm hesitant to use the cable now as I expect it would slip out of place and lose connection more easily.  Thoughts?

They're cheap.... don't you be!!

 

I know of at least three devices (two HD and one DVD-R) with broken SATA connector.

Cable is WAY better than PATA, but connector SUCKS HARD.

 

On their defense, the TWO HD are still working (stacked the broken plug/pins etc.), the DVD-R is not (took the pins along with the connector plastic).

 

Nothing more to add.

 

Cabling tying different SATA cables together can cause problems with crosstalk too apparently.

Cabling tying different SATA cables together can cause problems with crosstalk too apparently.

Theoretically, it should not... as the pairs of wire in the SATA cable "should" be twisted and become self-shielded.

However ... theory is not always correct. 

 

All you need is a cable where the wires are not twisted enough, or a noise source that originates from a parallel, similarly "twisted" pair in very close contact.  (To where the twists cannot cancel out the noise)

 

Let's see, a cable-tied bundle of SATA cables fit exactly that description....

 

Joe L.

 

 

I do, with a friggin' passion 

use quality sata cables.

 

even without the latch a good cable will lock so hard that it will nto come off without considerable force, such as the cables that come with highpoint raid cards

 

i have found the best cables are the ones that use the tiny sata connecor ends, no latch and therye no bigger (stick out more) than an angled connector, they grip like hell though.

 

I find most latching cables usually oens with motherboards bundle the connector itsel fis poor and lose and relies on the latch to hold it in but that means they can still wobble left and right a bit.

Agree with the SATA cable sentiment, don't get me started on HDMI cables!

 

dave

use quality sata cables.

 

even without the latch a good cable will lock so hard that it will nto come off without considerable force, such as the cables that come with highpoint raid cards

 

i have found the best cables are the ones that use the tiny sata connecor ends, no latch and therye no bigger (stick out more) than an angled connector, they grip like hell though.

 

I find most latching cables usually oens with motherboards bundle the connector itsel fis poor and lose and relies on the latch to hold it in but that means they can still wobble left and right a bit.

 

got any sources?