Cool Master Centurion 590 Case silent running and other questions


kizer

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I was looking at the Cool master 590 since its recommended in the budget build.

 

1. Power supply mounted down low and pulls air from bottom then back thru power supply.

I'm guessing you don't want this sitting on your carpet. ;) Normally I've seen power supplies pulling air from within the case to cool components, but I'm guessing this is to be a dedicated cooling source for the power supply? Maybe mount power supply upside down or is that a bit overkill?

 

2. Other than their internal cage I don't see a way to mount an additional fan unless you use an ICY 4-in-3 or a Coolmaster cage. Am I the only one that thinks that strange? Anyways would you recommend putting the parity drive in one cage and your other drives in another to give the parity maximum cooling or is that overkill?

 

Im looking at using the BioStar A760G from the budget build, but I was wondering about using a fanless heat sync maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Fanless-Aluminum-Copper-Cooler/dp/B0036GAUWI

The 120mm case fan would sit right behind the CPU and I figured it would suck air across the heat sync and make for a silent fan at least as far as the CPU goes.

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1. Turn power supply upside down.  I did, and I'm OK with it.

 

2. People on a budget use the cooler master 4in3 cages with the front fan. They are pretty cost effective. (I personally prefer re movables).

 

>> would you recommend putting the parity drive in one cage and your other drives in another to give the parity maximum cooling or is that overkill?

Only if you have the extra space, eventually you will want to move them closer for higher density.

In my current configuration I have 2 parity drives raid0 in their own 5in3 fan cage.

I'm sure it will get denser when I get my next supermicro 5in3.

 

3. Can't recommend anything regarding fanless amd.  I just do not know.

I know people get away with it for core 2 series.

if you do go fanless make sure the front fan is pushing cool air in.

While normal unraid usage will not make the CPU that hot. If you do any form of transcoding or md5 file verification, then you will want to do something that insures the CPU stays cool.

On one of my particular builds I had to set the Core 2 Duo fan to max (which was still quiet).

This insured the CPU stayed cool enough ( I was beating it up) and the chipset stayed cool enough.

This is where you may have issues of you do not have enough airflow through the case.

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Are the stock fans that come with the Case pretty quite of did you have to upgrade them to a quiter fan? I'm guessing since the case comes from Cool master they would be of decent quality, but I figure you never know. ;)

 

2. People on a budget use the cooler master 4in3 cages with the front fan. They are pretty cost effective. (I personally prefer re movables).

 

What exactly do you mean by removable? I know what removable means as in the dictionary, but do you have an example of what that is? LOL

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Are the stock fans that come with the Case pretty quite of did you have to upgrade them to a quiter fan? I'm guessing since the case comes from Cool master they would be of decent quality, but I figure you never know. ;)

 

I have all coolermaster fans in the case, and two in the top.

I used the vantec rubber grommets for the top to alleviate any rumble noise.

It's quiet enough for me.

 

2. People on a budget use the cooler master 4in3 cages with the front fan. They are pretty cost effective. (I personally prefer re movables).

 

What exactly do you mean by removable? I know what removable means as in the dictionary, but do you have an example of what that is? LOL

 

The 5in3 Sata Tray or Trayless removable drive bays.  I prefer not to open the machine and turn screws when changing drives.  Especailly as your array gets larger and larger.

 

Have you looked at the Norco Rackmount chassis ?

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Yeah they look really nice. I however can't lay out that much money as of now. I might later after I'm really sold on unRAID. Honestly I have a bit of time in console and the webclient. Heck I haven't even prep'd my drives yet. I have a full size rack sitting in my office given to me by a friend, but I've got mixed feelings if I should relocate it since I only have a few things on it that can move else where. I can't at the moment because my garage isn't insulated, which I've been working on so its an oven in the summer and a freezer in the winter. So my immediate goal is to try and keep the heat and noise down. Heck in the garage id let the fans make all the racket they want.

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Yeah they look really nice. I however can't lay out that much money as of now. I might later after I'm really sold on unRAID. Honestly I have a bit of time in console and the webclient. Heck I haven't even prep'd my drives yet. I have a full size rack sitting in my office given to me by a friend, but I've got mixed feelings if I should relocate it since I only have a few things on it that can move else where. I can't at the moment because my garage isn't insulated, which I've been working on so its an oven in the summer and a freezer in the winter. So my immediate goal is to try and keep the heat and noise down. Heck in the garage id let the fans make all the racket they want.

 

I'm guessing you might mean this as well for the access from the outside. Another item on the recommended list. Seems a bit pricey, but I'm sure its worth it for the added access opposed to having to crack open the case to tinker with drives.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994027

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Yeah they look really nice. I however can't lay out that much money as of now. I might later after I'm really sold on unRAID. Honestly I have a bit of time in console and the webclient. Heck I haven't even prep'd my drives yet. I have a full size rack sitting in my office given to me by a friend, but I've got mixed feelings if I should relocate it since I only have a few things on it that can move else where. I can't at the moment because my garage isn't insulated, which I've been working on so its an oven in the summer and a freezer in the winter. So my immediate goal is to try and keep the heat and noise down. Heck in the garage id let the fans make all the racket they want.

 

I'm guessing you might mean this as well for the access from the outside. Another item on the recommended list. Seems a bit pricey, but I'm sure its worth it for the added access opposed to having to crack open the case to tinker with drives.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994027

 

I would go with the 5in3's

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994028

Just bend the tabs on the CM590 (or nibble them off with a nibbler).

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Is there a particular Norco you guys are talking about? On NewEgg I see a few of them, but trying to figure out which one is the one that would accept the stacker, but of course in its simplist form so later a stacker could be added when funds would/could be available.

 

Still I think the Norco would be a bit overkill for my immediate needs, but having a rack Im sure in the future it would really come in handy as long as I could con the wife into letting me plug tons of drives into it.

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Ok, dropped some digital funds on the net today and this is the current setup as far.

 

Proc - AMD Sempron 140 Sargas 2.7 1MB AM3 45W Single Core Processor

Mobo - BIOSTAR A760G M2+

PSU - CORSAIR CMPSU-400CX 400W

CASE - COOLER MASTER Centurion 590

2TB Parity Drive Western Digital Caviar Green WD20EARS 2TB 64MB

 

I don't know the distance from the Mobo to the bottom of the case where the 4-in-3 cage is and of course I need to order up some Sata cables, but I've seen prices anywhere from 99cents up to $5 a piece. I'm guessing the cheaper ones are going to cause failures. I'm not planning on running any controller cards as of yet since I'm only starting with 4 drives

 

Can anybody give me a reasonable cable length or recommened a decent cable or is it more or less trail and error? I gave the forum a search and there is talk about loose cables and locking are always nice, but heck your talking to a guy who's used IDE cables forever and is now building his first Sata based machine.  ???

 

Sorry if I keep sounding like a help me, help me person. I promise once I get it all figured out I will pay it all forward. ;)

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Ok, I was looking at Sata Cables and came across Sata, Sata 2 and Sata 3.

 

Doing some reading it appears that Sata and Sata 2 are compatable with each other. Now on MonoPrice.com they show Sata 3 cables.

 

When you click on the Discription of Serial ATA 2/ SATA II Cables

Up comes a ton of Sata 3 cables. I'm aware that Sata 3 is talking about the 6gbs drives, but are they the same interface as the 3gbs drives?

 

I know the older style Satas used the molex plug for power, but are all of the Sata 1/2/3 the same as far as interface for data? Or is this the same thing as the old school IDE drives meaning if you are running a 133 drive you don't want to use an IDE cable that doesn't have the blue end or you will get the slower speeds? Meaning I could by Sata 3 now and if/when I do have a mobo and drives that support Sata 3 I would benifit?

 

Man I'm really feeling out of it. LOL

 

I figured I'd buy

(1) Red for Parity - cant seem to find orange there

(4) Blue for Data

(1) Black for cache

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Looks like some dozen or so different combos of search finally paid off. From what I could gleem Sata 1/2/3 cables are the samething. The only real difference between all the Sata Jargon is the thruput of the drive and the power connection, which is moot for what I need the data cable for anyways.

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Looks like some dozen or so different combos of search finally paid off. From what I could gleem Sata 1/2/3 cables are the samething. The only real difference between all the Sata Jargon is the thruput of the drive and the power connection, which is moot for what I need the data cable for anyways.

Yes, but they can charge more for the SATA-3 cable  >:(
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I figured I'd buy

(1) Red for Parity - cant seem to find orange there

(4) Blue for Data

(1) Black for cache

 

I used the UV colored cables for my setup.

 

UV Red for one Controller.

UV Green for another.

UV Blue for another.

 

I had some regular blue's for the two parity drives.

 

Came out really nice.

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I ended up buying the following, well at least for starters. ;)

 

(1) Red locking - Parity

(4) Black - Data

(1) Blue - Cache

 

I like that idea of using different colors for the controller card's. Not there yet, but when I am I think I might go with that too.

 

 

Question how does unRAID react to moving your drives around like that if/when you move your existing drives to a controller card? I'm only starting off with (4) drives, but I know I'll end up going to (5) soon after for cache and having a (6) one in waiting.

 

Is it best to fill up your Mobo ports then jump onto a controller card or does it really matter?

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I ended up buying the following, well at least for starters. ;)

 

(1) Red locking - Parity

(4) Black - Data

(1) Blue - Cache

 

I like that idea of using different colors for the controller card's. Not there yet, but when I am I think I might go with that too.

 

 

Question how does unRAID react to moving your drives around like that if/when you move your existing drives to a controller card? I'm only starting off with (4) drives, but I know I'll end up going to (5) soon after for cache and having a (6) one in waiting.

 

Is it best to fill up your Mobo ports then jump onto a controller card or does it really matter?

 

Use the brightest colors for the drives that would move the most..  The black would get lost in there and you may get frustrated with that.  Plus it's harder to get black cables if you want to in the future.

 

I sold all my red sata cables and purchased a huge lot of all the various colored cables I would need to grow into.

 

With unRAID you can move drives to different controllers as long as they are re-assigned into the same disk slot.  iI's prudent to get a snapshot of the drive layout before you move anything around.

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