Netgear has a model/kit: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/powerline-and-coax/high-performance/XWNB5201.aspx

Alternatively, go for a standard powerline 500kit, without wireless AP and add another AP to your switch.

...more models to choose from.

True...I could just as easily just igore the powerline AP and like you say...straight 500mbps powerline from router to Gigabit switch and then connect the server, HTPC, and a wifi router to the switch.

 

If I do all this and if I Re-read the stars and tea leaves correctly I would be able to:

connect server to internet

have HTPC access data on server

have HTPC access the internet

have my iPad/iphone wirelessly access data on server via the wifi router plugged into the Gigabit switch

 

....I think...

 

I am still confused as to what your actual wireless setup looks like, since you are taking about "a wifi router to be connected to the switch".

If you want max wireless speed for  your iPad to access the server, you need to connect a wireless access point (AP) directly with a cat cable to your switch

That AP should have a Gbit wired link..

You do not need/want a router in that place...just an AP. You need the router in the kitchen to route between home-network and internet.

An AP is just a bridge between wired and wireless network, like a powerline unit is between wired ethernet and power-grid.

 

Lets start with what we can settle as "nailed down":

We will assume your home is laid out as in your post here http://lime-technology.com/forum/index.php?topic=25765.msg224590#msg224590

Based on that you can do the following:

 

- place your server in the office room.

- run a cat5e/cat6 cable from office to MasterBedroom/HTPC#2

- this is also the place where you put your gigabit switch

- into that switch, you connect via wire/RJ45:

1 the cable from office (server)

2 the HTPC#2

3 the first powerline unit (PL#1)

- you connect the second powerline unit (PL#2) to your internet router (where also the modem is already connected) at the kitchen.

 

This will allow you to:

- connect server to internet (path via switch, PL#1, PL#2, kitchen-router, modem)

- have HTPC#2 access data on server  (path via swicth)

- have HTPC#2 access the internet (path via switch, PL#1, PL#2, kitchen-router, modem)

 

Now, since your current router in kitchen provides wireless access to the internet for your iPad/iphone/netbook, your wireless devices now can:

- still access the internet

- access the server (path via kitchen-router, PL#2, PL#1, switch, server) ...but here the limit is link-speed between PL#2 and PL#1, or link speed between

router and PL#2 (maybe router only has a 100MBit switch port), or wireless link speed of your router to iPad..whatever is lower.

 

Since the kitchen router also contains an active AP (and normally a DHCP server) for your home net already, you need to act, since you don't want two APs.

Here the scenario from my post http://lime-technology.com/forum/index.php?topic=25765.msg224647#msg224647 comes into play.

A) Configure your new AP as a repeater of the existing AP in your kitchen-router, or

B) shutdown the AP in the kitchen-router (but not modem and DHCP-Server) and only use the new AP  at the switch to provide wifi to your home.

 

If you go for (B) and shutdown the AP in your kitchen-router and activate the new AP at the switch, you are able to:

- connect server to internet (path via switch, PL#1, PL#2, kitchen-router, modem)

- have HTPC#2 access data on server  (path via swicth)

- have HTPC#2 access the internet (path via switch, PL#1, PL#2, kitchen-router, modem)

- connect wireless devices (iPad, iphone, ...) to your server with max wifi speed (path via new AP, switch, server)

- connect wireless devices (iPad, iphone, ...) to internet (path via new AP, switch, PL#1, PL#2, kitchen-router, modem)

 

...you can decide if you combine AP and PL#1 into the same unit, like with the netgear kit I pointed to (http://www.netgear.com/home/products/powerline-and-coax/high-performance/XWNB5201.aspx) or go for two separate units (each consuming a port on your switch)

 

..if you decide to install a HTPC in site #1, your Living Room, run a cat cable from site#1 to site#2 (to your switch) ...or try another Powerline unit (PL#3) instead.

You can continue with this pattern for every room (or in case of choosing Powerline, for every power wall-socket in your home 

Not quite right!!!  Powernet is not the same as WiFi.  They apparently use entirely different protocols and frequency bands.  They should be able to peaceably co-exist on the same router.  An Access Point (AP) is NOT a router.  That function is entirely separate from the DHPC function that the router provides.  (You should NOT have two DHCP servers on the same system or you will have issues!) 

 

Further, as I understand it, there are people who have multiple WiFi access points connected to the same router.  This allows for coverage in large houses, businesses, and buildings with unusual construction that limit WiFi range.  There are 11 channels available for use in the 2.4GHz band any one of which can be assigned on the individual AP to minimize interference. . 

 

Next the powernet system has its own security protocol which it negotiates between the other powernet nodes on the system.  But that security is completely independent to the security  of the WiFi connection.  It is my understanding that you can hook up a third or fourth powernet module on the original network--but be careful as that functionality may depend on the hardware vender.  Of course, the additional modules will be sharing the same bandwidth.    (When I was looking for information for this reply, I failed to find any mention of a powernet spec on google so you may be locked to a single vender for all components.)

 

As far as the iPad needing 'wired' access to the network, I don't see that happening as, apparently, it does not even have a RJ45 connector on it. 

 

As an aside, I have an WiFi access point on my network because I have a router which does not have WiFi built in.  (The separate AP also allows me to disable WiFi by simply turn it off for increased network security--- and it is off 98% of the time.)  I also have two gigabyte switches on my home network and the second switch is plugged into the first switch which in turn is plugged into the router.  (I did it this way because the router is only 100Mbs.)  My router easily handles all of the  DHCP duties of passing out IP addresses across the entire network. 

I just wanted to point out that there is no need to buy the more expensive high speed model powerline kits. If you have a wireless internet connection I'm guessing your internet is pretty slow. If you wanted to wirelessly stream media to, say, your wife's iPad, even 100Mbit from the switch to the router is more than enough. All devices connected to the gigabit switch bypass the router for transferring data so it doesn't matter that the connection from the switch back to the router is slower. From the sounds of how you're setting this up, you only need the powerline kit from your router to your switch to be as fast as your internet connection.

 

+1 on the Trendnet switches mentioned a few posts back. I had a 5 port and and 8 port and they've been awesome.

I just wanted to point out that there is no need to buy the more expensive high speed model powerline kits. If you have a wireless internet connection I'm guessing your internet is pretty slow.

Yes, technically, the traffic from broadband connection would barely saturate even a 50MBit Powerline link.

This feature, I solely recommended for "safety".

Because in reality you will never reach the advertised powerline speed. There are a lot of factors that influence powerline link quality in the power-grid of your home.

I have quite a lot experience with these units and from that, I can determine that powerline models with higher "speed index"  are better to negotiate a link on a sustainable

speed and with good stability/quality, even if power cabling in your home is challenging.

 

If you wanted to wirelessly stream media to, say, your wife's iPad, even 100Mbit from the switch to the router is more than enough.

Yes, for these devices only...

But for the usecase where a powerline based AP is used with higher speed index than 200, you want a Gbit link on that unit in order to enable a device connected to the wired side of the

unit  (and on the other side of the powerline-grid) to benefit from the (potentially) higher bandwidth in the powerline grid.

All devices connected to the gigabit switch bypass the router for transfering data so it doesn't matter that the connection from the switch back to the router is slower.

No Way! That's why we have switch, not a hub.

This applies only for

- wireless devices, if the AP in that router is used...these packets will

  - only traverse the switch in router but will not get routed because they are on the same network when addressing internal devices, like server, HTPC, ....

  - will get routed if addressing the internet

 

...if an AP is used for wireless traffic, which is directly wired to the gbit switch, only traffic to the internet will get routed (path is: wireless-device -> AP -> Switch -> PL#1 -> PL#2 -> internet router (switch-side) -> "routing" -> internet-router (modem side).

All other traffic on the internal network will be handled via the switch, which will send packets only to the direct link of associated endpoint devices.

 

The powerline-grid, build by the PL-units is forming a hub.

This means, all devices connected via powerline will be associated on the gbit switch with the port to which the PL-Unit#1 is connected.

All devices on the powerline share the bandwidth, but not all traffic is passing through them. Each PL-unit switches between powerline side and wired side.

So only traffic for the internet or the internet-router itsself (like its service/config-app URL or the AP) will actually reach the internet-router via powerline.

 

From the sounds of how you're setting this up, you only need the powerline kit from your router to your switch to be as fast as your internet connection

.

See my comment above...for comparing advertised speeds and technical bandwidth, this is correct.

For quality "headroom"/ease of use/stability in real life, this I cannot confirm.

Also for potential future changes (like setting up another HTPC via powerline, if you cannot run a cable to the switch) you don't want to be limited to a 100MBit connection

BTW: A 200MBit Powerline unit will give you just this...a 100MBit (full duplex) bridge....at best...not good enough to stream a native FullHD Bluray (2D/3D). ...I own Blurays where even a pure wired 100MBit connection is not good enough (when using SMB protocol to access the data, like from unRAID server)

I actually have a similar situation..

 

My internet comes in at the worse part of my house, the dining room.  I have a wi-fi 2 channel "N" AP broadcasting the internet only signal in the house.

In my server room (spare bedroom and separate from the home office). I have a wireless N bridge (plugged into my main switch) that's communicating with the internet only wi-fi to get my whole network online.  I then have another 2 channel "N" AP that 3 of my htpc's. I have no issues with 1080p over N under normal situations. I also have a Wi-Fi "AB" (Gigabit wireless) AP dedicated for my "data channels".

 

In my office i have an "AB" (gigabit) bridge (just an AP in bridge mode) connecting to another swtich that my main gaming rig, my main work PC's, some of my thin terminals and another HTPC.

In the basement I also have another "AB" bridge that has a few secondary servers that are just for minor backups and my music studio.

One day I'll hard-wire all of this. Right now it is not an option and i had to do this quick and dirty.

 

 

for my laptops and other mobile devices. ill connect to the internet AP in teh dining room (that still gets me to my servers). if i need to push a lot of data via wi-fi with my laptop, i'll connect to the server rooms "N" (or plug it into an Ethernet jack).

 

the gigabit wireless can push a good amount of data though it. it defiantly limited in speed and cant touch gigabit wired. but I dont use it for massive data loads often. the big loads it sees are time machine backups and backing up my music and work I'm doing in the office.

 

I did try powerlines a few year back and they were slower then N for me. the new models might be better. i was also very limited where I could use them in my home. each area in the house runs back to the fuse box.

@Ford Prefect: "Since the kitchen router also contains an active AP (and normally a DHCP server) for your home net already, you need to act, since you don't want two APs.

Here the scenario from my post http://lime-technology.com/forum/index.php?topic=25765.msg224647#msg224647 comes into play.

A) Configure your new AP as a repeater of the existing AP in your kitchen-router, or"

 

This seems to me to be the easiest option and would still accomplish all of my lofty goals:

connect server to internet

have HTPC access data on server

have HTPC access the internet

have my iPad/iphone/netbook wirelessly access data on server via the AP (repeater mode?) plugged into the Gigabit switch

 

 

 

 

 

Okay I think I'm getting an idea of what I want to get:

 

Tower:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100

 

PSU:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028

 

RAM:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

 

MOBO/CPU:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1198275

 

HDD Cage:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994028 (x2)

 

Parity Drive:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236344

 

Storage Drive:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236343 (x3)

 

Controller Card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816101358

 

SATA Cable:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816116091

 

USB MOBO Adapter:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200474

 

USB Drive:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171586

 

Powernet Line Units:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WG6K66?ie=UTF8&tag=etalecouk-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B009WG6K66

 

Gigabit Switch:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156251

 

 

If you guys could look over this and tell me your thoughts it would be really help me out!!

 

[EDIT] Still undecided as to which cache drive to use 

..make sure you read my post regarding the options on how to set up your APs.

Repeater mode is not easy to do...and it needs support from all AP-units (the Powerline-AP and the internet-router AP).

If not done correctly, it'll cut your wireless bandwidth in half.

 

If you could please give us some info on your current wireless setup?!?!

What is the make and model of your router and (internet-)modem ...I've already asked for that twice...maybe you overlooked (n.p. if you don't want to share,

but I think this is the hardest and most also important part of your setup).

@Ford Prefect: Currently at work at the moment but will update the make model of the modem and router when I get home. I know that you had asked for it but the mother in law stopped by yesterday and decided to stay until Saturday.  Sooo needless to say I was a little preoccupied trying to clean up and make a fancy (fancier than usual anyway) dinner for everybody.

 

I promise I will update the specs as soon as I get home. Literally just set the reminder on my iPhone!! I promise!! ;D

...no woories.

I had a colleague who surprised everyone at work by suddenly serving a great lunch "all-you-can eat" ...when we asked her why (birthday?), we learned that this was her way of celebrating her mother-in-law leaving 

 

OK, another update...the netgear PL-AP does not have a GBit wired side....just double checked the specs 

I suggest to go for an alternate AP.

We can look after that as soon as we know how to setup your wireless infrastructure and the constraints given by your existing parts in the kitchen.

 

Edit: here is some good reading regarding this topic.http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linking_Routers

Okay...

 

Modem: Navini Networks Ripwave MX Modem Model 2.5-2.6  LMX E

 

Router: Netgear Rangemax Duo Wireless-N Router Model: WMDR3300

 

Lol on the woman and her M.I.L!! I might do the same thing com Monday!!

 

*sent from iPhone still trying to come up with some new fancy smancy dinner idea...

Oh!

...never seen this kind of kit around here.

 

OK, this is your modem? http://www.manualslib.com/manual/109537/Navini-Networks-Ripwave-Mx.html#manual

 

If yes, please tell us what kind of subscription you've got with your provider.

I want to find out how many IP-Adresses you provider allows you to receive.

Is the modem connected to the WAN or LAN port of your router?

 

The modem appears to have its own DHCP Server...it'll hand out IP-Adresses to one or more computers connected to its ethernet port.

According to the manual above, see page 34, there are three setup options.

You currently are running the third (with a router).

In theory, you could run the second scenario, with a hub.  in this case you could just connect the PL unit to the modem.

However, the modem (its DHCP server) will then hand-out IP-adresses to all computers on your network (because of PL connection forming a hub).

Most likely, these are "real" internet addresses...don't know ...you could check with your provider and explain that scenario to them...maybe they are smart enough to help.

 

However, your Router is a quite old, ans nowadays considered a fairly basic model...not a good range and only 100MBit ethernet switch.

If you need to keep the router scenario with your modem, I'd suggest to connect PL unit to the router and disable the wireless AP part in the router.

Then get a "real"  AP (or Router, running in AP-mode only) and connect it to your switch....

You most likely will only need one AP to provide wireless reception to all of  your home.

By disabling the AP in your kitchen router, you make sure that your iPad will not connect to the kitchen-router and access

the server with HD media via this connection (kitchen-router via PL)....also eliminate another source for disturbing signals between modem and

ISP (which is also wireless on the same channel range).

 

If you look for new AP, also look into Routers...Routers can run in AP-Mode but are SoHo/consumer priced while APs are

regarded as "more professional" and higher priced (but basic models do offer nothing more than a Router).

 

When going for a Router, there is an option to save some money.

In the new Router, you will have a switch already....four ports (PL, server, HTPC, spare)....enough for your actual scope.

Also you will not be needing the WAN port....If your Router can run an alternate firmware, like DD-WRT, you are able to assign the WAN-Port to the switch as well, giving you a 5 Port switch.

 

Here is one with GBit switch than can run DD-WRT, but I don't know on its wireless quality...http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=33-122-334&ParentOnly=1

Some Buffalo Routers models come with DD-WRT firmware pre-installed.

But for a start, you don't need the fifth port...you can switch to DD-WRT later ... but it is maybe wise to buy a compatible unit now to protect your investment...on the other side...an 8port switch is only 25USD.

 

PL units with Gbit are here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008201%20600083986%20600044660&IsNodeId=1&srchInDesc=gigabit&name=Double&Pagesize=20

I've had good experience with these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704139 for a couple of installations at my friend's places in old, not to say antique, homes..

Yes, this is indeed the modem that was provided for us http://www.manualslib.com/manual/109537/Navini-Networks-Ripwave-Mx.html#manual and currently the modem is directly wired into the "Internet Input" LAN jack on the router.

 

My plan can be located here: https://wwws.razzolink.com/service-areas-hollister.shtml#biz I have what they refer to as the "Fastest Premier Plus" plan and though to be honest the details are very little forthcoming on their site 

 

If I read the above plan correctly it would look something like this:

 

 

(Sorry for all of the images but I'm more of a visual learner) 

 

 

...yes, that's quite accurate....well done.

 

Did your ISP supply you with the router as well? Did you set it up yourself or was that part of the initial setup-service

from your provider? (Are you able to replace the kitchen router if need be?...read on, we'll come to that in option 2 below.)

 

What you can see from your drawing, both APs are activated (kitchen and new AP/router).

This is technically OK and you should do that if the wifi signal  from the new router/AP will not reach to your kitchen.

This setup will allow your wireless devices (iPad#1, iPad#2) to "roam" between APs...they will be able to connect to either AP, whichever signal is stronger.

Like in your picture, iPad#2 would most likely connect to your kitchen router at this location in your home.

Now, if iPad#2 is connected to kitchen-router and wants to access data from the server, it will connect via the kitchen-router (not a GBit-link) and PL#1 connection to your PL#2 in the switch of the new router/AP

The ethernet switch at the kitchen-router is the limiting factor.

 

You can go that route with two options:

 

1) do as laid out in your picture.

    ..set up the new router as AP only (disable DHCP, set  it to a dedicated IP in your range (e.g your kitchen router is 192.168.1.1, set the new AP to 192.168.1.2)

    ...set the wireless side to the same SSID and password as in your kitchen router...set both APs to a dedicated but different wireless channel

 

...this should do the trick...test the performance from your iPad with the kitchen router only. (...switch off new AP).

If the performance to your server is not OK for streaming media, try with AP in kitchen router disabled (just wireless, leave modem and DHCP server on)....or go to option 2 below.

(For streaming media to iPad you could also set your new AP to a SSID different to that from your kitchen-router...so you can

manage- when you want data from your server - that you are connected to the right, good quality AP ...not very convenient/easy to use, but technically works as well)

 

2) If your new router will not cover wireless reception in the kitchen alone, you could exchange the existing one with a new (also with GBit switch) and with that follow your option 1 with all good parts.

.... and currently the modem is directly wired into the "Internet Input" LAN jack on the router.

 

Ah, now I understand...it's actually working like a setup with a cable-modem (only that this unit is not broadband-cable, but broadband-wireless).

 

Well its been a couple of weeks and parts have for the most part trickled in. Just been ordering them bit by bit one coupon code at a time 

 

The only things I'm waiting for right now are the powerline kit (which seems to be held up in Kansas due to bad weather :'( ) and a cache/app drive that I have yet to order...Though I've been looking at this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147163

 

Is there anybody using another type that they like/prefer? Is anybody using a dedicated app drive? If so, how do you like it?

 

Can't wait for everything to accumulate so I can take pics and do a build!!!!