I plan to build a 8 7200rpm drive server based on a Supermicro X7SPA-HF-D525. What PSU would you guys recommend? Is the X7SPA as "picky" regarding PSUs as other Supermicro server boards?

...that board only requires/has the 24-pin connector...no 4pin-ATX or 8pin-EPS connector...so it is not "picky" as other SM boards that require a SSI EPS compliant PSU, if this is what you mean.

 

It is picky on RAM, though...note the statement from SM site:

Some 1066MHz and 1333MHz memory can be used, but will operate at 800MHz

I'd use the Kingston memory search and see what kit they'll recommend/offer.

 

I run two of the D510 predecessors since two years as backup Servers with Solaris...solid as a rock.

 

I'd go with around 350-400W PSU for 8 modern 7.2k drives ( 2A each,  like the Seagate or Toshiba).

Add 2.5A for mobo, RAM and controller-card.

 

Like the "Seasonic G-360" or the "SuperFlower Golden Green Pro 400W"

The PSU doesn't need to be very large -- you're only going to be drawing about 20 watts on idle;  and no more than 50 with the drives spun up (mine draws 42 watts with 5 3TB WD Reds spun up).

 

This is an excellent, rock-solid board -- by far my favorite for a 6-drive UnRAID setup.

 

What case are you using?  I used the superb Lian-Li PC-Q25B, but you have to be very careful about the size of the PSU you buy for it.  I purchased an excellent PC Power & Cooling unit, but it wouldn't fit.  A Corsair CX430 fits -- but NOT the CX430M (which I'd have preferred to use).    If I was doing it over, I'd use an SFX unit like this:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256084

... although I would consider the 250W 80+ Sparkle unit (I just don't like low-end supplies like Sparkle)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103047

 

For memory, you can use this:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139482

Note that SuperMicro's specs say a max of 4GB, but it works perfectly with 8GB 

 

By the way, if you ARE using the Lian-Li case and need help finding left-hand SATA cables, just post a note and I'll find my receipt.    They were tricky to find; but the wiring to the internal hot-swap cage is much "cleaner" with left-hand connections.

 

No, Im not using the Lian Li, but a Fractal Design Arc Mini. I still have a Seasonic M12 650 W, that Im gonna use.

 

For now case and PSU will do.

 

 

How's the build coming?

 

The Seasonic M12 is a great unit -- I've got the same unit in one of my systems.

 

The only issue is just how degraded the efficiency may get at such a low draw; but I don't think it will be too bad.    If you happen to have a Kill-a-Watt, it'd be instructive if you'd post some power measurements of the completed system in various states [all drives idle;  one drive spinning;  all drives spinning and busy with a parity check].

 

How's the build coming?

 

The Seasonic M12 is a great unit -- I've got the same unit in one of my systems.

 

The only issue is just how degraded the efficiency may get at such a low draw; but I don't think it will be too bad.    If you happen to have a Kill-a-Watt, it'd be instructive if you'd post some power measurements of the completed system in various states [all drives idle;  one drive spinning;  all drives spinning and busy with a parity check].

 

I don't know if there is a European version of the Kill a Watt. 220V with Europea plug and socket. Be glad to oblige.

 

I don't know if there is a European version of the Kill a Watt. 220V with Europea plug and socket. Be glad to oblige.

 

...there are lots of option, see on amazon.de: http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_13?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85Z%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=energiekosten+messger%C3%A4t&sprefix=energiekosten%2Caps%2C160&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aenergiekosten+messger%C3%A4t

 

However, some of these meters are not very accurate, especially on low wattage (like the system being off or in sleep mode)

The better, professional ones from ELV ave a good  reputation, AFAIR, see: http://www.elv.de/energiemonitore.html

Just make sure that you get one that can measure watts as well as VA (and ideally also Power Factor).  Some only meaure VA but call it watts, which is not helpful when you need to measure standby power consumption for example.

Off topic but I can never get over how freaking big European plugs are. Why are they so damn big? They're literally 3 to 4 times the size of a 2 prong North American plug.

Off topic but I can never get over how freaking big European plugs are. Why are they so damn big? They're literally 3 to 4 times the size of a 2 prong North American plug.

 

I can't speak for plugs in mainland Europe, but UK plugs are big because they're designed for safety.  For a start, they have three prongs because all electrical outlets in UK have to have an earth (ground) connection.  Secondly, they have a replaceable fuse inside them.  Thirdly, they have nice big prongs so that they make good contact and to make them secure in the socket.  I hate the puny two-pin american style plugs we have here in Philippines - they fall out of the wall socket so easily!

 

I wired my house with earth/ground connection and three pin sockets everywhere, using ring main circuits, protected by elcb (rcd) breakers.

 

Electrical standards here in Philippines are very poor, resulting in many electrocutions and electrical fires.

Off topic but I can never get over how freaking big European plugs are. Why are they so damn big? They're literally 3 to 4 times the size of a 2 prong North American plug.

 

I can't speak for plugs in mainland Europe, but UK plugs are big because they're designed for safety.  For a start, they have three prongs because all electrical outlets in UK have to have an earth (ground) connection.  Secondly, they have a replaceable fuse inside them.  Thirdly, they have nice big prongs so that they make good contact and to make them secure in the socket.  I hate the puny two-pin american style plugs we have here in Philippines - they fall out of the wall socket so easily!

 

I wired my house with earth/ground connection and three pin sockets everywhere, using ring main circuits, protected by elcb (rcd) breakers.

 

Electrical standards here in Philippines are very poor, resulting in many electrocutions and electrical fires.

 

If you have poor electricity I can understand the desire for a fuse but I've never had the problems you mention, honestly, ever in my entire life. I have the charging brick for my bicycle headlight hanging literally upside down from a two prong socket on the underside of a bathroom wall lamp (probably were intended for hair dryers, electric razors, etc.) that is from the 1950s. It's been hanging there for 3 years and requires force to remove it from the socket. If your two prong plugs are loose in the socket thats because they are poorly made sockets. If I were to walk in to the cord of any of my two prong plugs I have around the house it would almost certainly trip me rather than coming out of the socket.

 

We also have three prong plugs/sockets here too and they are still no where near as big. Instead of putting a fuse in the plug itself most wall sockets and power strips made in the last 2 decades or so here (and this includes 2 prong only sockets) have a circuit in them that will pop if there is a spike or surge. You just hit the reset button to reset the circuit.

 

Don't mean to sound rude but the things you mention sound more like the problem of a poor electrical grid and poorly made sockets. I know Europe, at least western and central non post-Soviet Europe, does not have a problem with the electrical grid.

If you have poor electricity I can understand the desire for a fuse...

 

I'm trying to work out what a fuse has to do with 'poor electricity'.

 

Instead of putting a fuse in the plug itself most wall sockets and power strips made in the last 2 decades or so here (and this includes 2 prong only sockets) have a circuit in them that will pop if there is a spike or surge.

 

Err ... a fuse provides over-current protection and, ideally, should be rated according to the current requirement of the device(s) connected.  I fail to see how a circuit in the socket can know what the current requirement is of the device which is plugged in to it.

I think a major factor in the size of the sockets is the voltage => the European grid is 220, vs. the 110v in the US.    Before complaining about the size of European plugs, look at the 220v plugs here in the US