So…went to connect to Server, last night. No connection. Check on it; no power. Press power-button; no bueno.

 

Most likely the PSU, yes? Can’t say, it hasn’t served me well. It’s a Zippy EMACS (re-branded Athena Power) P2H 5500. It’s been pretty much, 24/7…in a room, which unfortunately is not temperature controlled and quite hot in the Summer; for…10 years now. R.I.P., reliable buddy.

 

Unfortunately…looks like a stand-in replacement, is around $320!
 

It’ll be, what it’ll be; but before I fork out for a new PSU…stand-in or otherwise; is there troubleshooting I should do…to make sure it’s not something else (ideally, without a multimeter…because I’d have to track mine down).

 

TIA

Edited August 20, 20223 yr by CDLehner
Update

What is a Zippy? A chinese BOOM-WAMM-PAFF? 🤣

Kick this crap out and buy only from known brands like Seasonic or similar 👍

Edited August 20, 20223 yr by Zonediver

http://www.athenapower.com/node/538
 

Umm; nothing wrong with that…is there? Like I said…ran 24/7, in a hot room; for 10+ years.

 

Plus…I asked for advice on troubleshooting. Thanks 

You could short out the two pins on 24 pin and see if power supply is the issue. Check on google how to do it. You could also get power supply tester. Personally I would lead to believe psu as well.

Can anyone comment on THIS unit https://www.zippy.com/pwproductshowdetail.aspx?pp_rfnbr=1424 vs. the above.

 

Other than maybe Zonediver, who we know…thinks they both suck, lol.

Edited August 20, 20223 yr by CDLehner

12 hours ago, CDLehner said:

Other than maybe Zonediver, who we know…thinks they both suck, lol.

I guess Zonedriver has made that comment without realizing that you have a server PSU.

3 hours ago, Lolight said:

I guess Zonedriver has made that comment without realizing that you have a server PSU.

Forgiven…lol.

 

I have a used p2H-5500 replacement OTW. Fingers crossed, it buys me a few weeks/months…while I figure out a long-term solution.

So…I didn’t appear to get lucky: exact replacement (used) PSU…did not plug right in, and “just work” (unless I didn’t hook things back up, the right way…which IS a possibility). I AM planning, to attempt the “paper clip” test…on both units; but the betting man in me, has his money on something else (CPU).

 

So, now…I need some tips, on how to METHODICALLY test for my FAILED part. IF it turns out, one of my PSUs DOES spin a fan…I’ll have to get little check, on my connectivity 

 

Another question: if I’ve burned-out a CPU or MoBo; the cost to replace, MIGHT not really be cost-efficient…as opposed to another approach. I know, when I was putting my box together…a DECADE or better ago…an option (because of unRAID’s low overhead), was just an “old, laying-around” PC, and a JBOD USB unit, like this ~$250 unit https://www.sybausa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1001

 

Is this still, a VIABLE approach? Thanks 

Edited August 27, 20223 yr by CDLehner

16 hours ago, CDLehner said:

JBOD USB

NO.

 

External disk enclosures are only viable if the disks all have a unique full bandwidth path to the main system. Either a unique ESATA cable PER DISK, which I've personally never seen, or SAS cables that give full bandwidth using fewer cables.

 

Because Unraid requires talking to all disks simultaneously for parity to reconstruct data, anything that shares communication for multiple disks like port multipliers and USB enclosures is going to be very bad. SAS is the only "low budget" method I know of that works.

 

17 hours ago, CDLehner said:

I AM planning, to attempt the “paper clip” test…on both units; but the betting man in me, has his money on something else (CPU).

I'll bet motherboard. I hardly ever see CPU failures unless physically induced by bent pins or lack of proper cooling. It's usually the power conditioning circuits on the motherboard that give up.

Thanks for chiming in JM. I know it’s not an “exciting” topic…for anyone to follow; but assistance from the forum, is going to be important to getting me back up and running!
 

I think at this point…and I haven’t done my paper-clip test yet, as I misplaced it…I’m going to pull my parts, out of the case. PSU, MoBo (w/CPU, RAM, etc.)…fan array, etc. I think it’ll be easier to test and isolate the failed part; the case needs cleaning out anyway…and then just re-build.

 

I see some ATX boards, that are not very expensive at all. Obviously, I’ll need to see if any are available…that fit my (very) old CPU. Another option I MAY have…and it might even be the “better” way to go, depending; is…as I’ve mentioned…I have some (working) PCs “laying around” (I’m a business owner, and these are Office PCs…that have since been replaced). Not sure what size the boards are (or if my case, will take other than ATX. I suppose I could DIY some stays); but they’d have CPUs, and perhaps “enough” RAM (or my current RAM will fit/work).

 

Bottom line: guess I’m going to identify the culprit, and see if I can’t FrankenServer it.

 

EDIT- Duh; sh*t. THOSE boards, won’t run 6 SATA…like this board was chosen to do (nor is it likely, will these “inexpensive” new models I gave a quick look at).

Edited August 28, 20223 yr by CDLehner

So…now; what’s the likelihood of the culprit…in order?

 

MoBo

CPU

RAM?

 

Anything else I could be missing? This may sound dumb…but I’m going to ask anyway: any chance, this is the power button on my case??

5 hours ago, CDLehner said:

any chance, this is the power button on my case??

It's a possibility if nothing happens when you push it, easy to test if there's a reset button, just plug that one, or use something to short the pins.

18 hours ago, CDLehner said:

I haven’t done my paper-clip test yet, as I misplaced it

You only have one paper clip? 🤣

 

I'm pretty sure I've only ever seen boxes of 100+

 

Regardless, it may be useful to get one of the $20 power supply testers, it does the same thing as the paperclip test but gives voltage sanity readings as well.

12 hours ago, CDLehner said:

So…now; what’s the likelihood of the culprit…in order?

MB is prime suspect, does it have a buzzer or speaker attached? Bare MB with CPU and heatsink ONLY, no RAM, no wires connected, NOTHING else, should give beep codes indicating no RAM detected after you momentarily short the 2 power button pins.

Add the RAM back, it should indicate either successful POST or video failure, depending if the CPU and MB have on board video.

 

Keep in mind server boards can have EXTREMELY long POST routines, especially after CMOS clearing. I've had to wait literal minutes after pressing the power button to get codes, assuming the board spins up the CPU fan.

Jonathan...I don't have ANY paper clips, at home 🤣 So I took one home, from my Office...but misplaced it; but then found it, and conducted the test...against my "old" PSU.

 

FTR...this is my board; GigaByte GA-MA790GPT-UD3H. I guess I'll start RTFM, unless you guys can point me at a reset button. In any case...going forward; probably a good idea, to visually be on the same page. Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, Jonathan...are you suggesting my next steps are...

 

- remove EVERYTHING on the board...except CPU and heatsink/fan

- find the short pins

- listen for post beep errors

 

...then

 

- add RAM back to the board

- and try to determine what post errors are indicating?

 

Thanks,

To clarify, you do need the PSU connected to the motherboard.

So, the only components involved would be PSU, MB, CPU heatsink and fan, and since your board doesn't appear to have an onboard speaker of any sort, you need one connected to the pins labeled SPEAK+ and SPEAK- to hear POST beeps.

Once things are connected, you use a metal screwdriver or knife blade to momentarily connect the 2 pins labeled PW + and PW -, and you should get beep codes indicating RAM failure (since there is none) accompanied by the CPU fan spinning up. No beeps, bad board or CPU, typically board.

 

If you are removing the MB from the case to do this, be sure it's on a non-conductive surface, and be careful about static electricity.

 

OK Jonathan: the only things still on the board, are these (3) (+the CPU and heatsink fan obviously). Am I OK to go ahead with the "jumper" test?

 

Thx

Edited August 31, 20223 yr by CDLehner

A foolish thought:  The MB in my server has twice thrown this at me.

 

Wouldn't boot, no power no matter what I tried.  Stripped it down, different power supply, reset BIOS via jumper, etc.

 

I pulled out the CMOS battery to check voltage, was OK.  Put it back in the MB and SUCCESS - Powered right up.  Happened again a few months later, same fix.

 

Sometimes the answer is obvious.  Sometimes, it is the stupidest thing...

17 hours ago, CDLehner said:

OK Jonathan: the only things still on the board, are these (3) (+the CPU and heatsink fan obviously). Am I OK to go ahead with the "jumper" test?

 

Thx

Speaker connected? Without it, you are flying blind.

I thought post-code, came next? I thought this test...was just to see, if the heatsink fan spun?

 

I don't have speaker, that would go right off the pins. I've certainly heard the post-codes before...so, either I do have a speaker on the board...or it was off my monitor. I don't guess, i can hook the video up? How about external, powered speakers...from the 3.5 audio jack?

 

Can I at least try...and see if I get fans? Will that tell me anything useful (for now)??

 

I'm champing at the bit.

 

EDIT: Champing at the bit ^...so couldn't wait; and CPU fan, DID spin. Mean ANYTHING?

Edited August 31, 20223 yr by CDLehner

19 minutes ago, CDLehner said:

CPU fan, DID spin. Mean ANYTHING?

Yep, it means the motherboard is correctly telling the power supply to go from standby to normal output. Without POST codes, it means very little.

 

When you momentarily short the PW pins, correct behaviour would be to spin the CPU fan continuously, possibly changing speeds to clear dust. Momentarily short the pins again while the fan is running, and it should spin down the CPU fan.

 

21 minutes ago, CDLehner said:

I've certainly heard the post-codes before...so, either I do have a speaker on the board...or it was off my monitor.

99% of boards that I've dealt with either have on board piezo speakers, or just the pins. Are there any 4 position connectors labeled speak or something similar in the case front panel bundle with the power, reset, and LED connectors?

 

Is the picture you posted 100% the same as your board? I don't see any piezo drivers on the picture you attached.

Here's a picture of the part by itself,

Here's a picture of a corner of a motherboard with one on it, upper right quadrant.

 

Yeah; there’s no Piezo speaker like that, that I’ve noticed. The case DOES have speaker “leads”; but…in the past…whenever I got post-codes, EVERYTHING was still hooked up (I’ve never had to troubleshoot like THIS. So I suppose, they might have been coming from the monitor).

 

My case is the Norco RPC-2212. I guess I could Google, whether it has a little speaker (in which case, I could re-attach the leads. Not even sure, they were ever hooked up/that I removed them, when I was pulling everything else off, to begin with.

 

Thx

 

EDIT: of course…can’t find any kind of info, that confirms that. Should I just buy one, considering it’s $5? While I’m ordering sh*t…at THIS point; would one of those CPU testers be worthwhile?

Edited August 31, 20223 yr by CDLehner

2 hours ago, CDLehner said:

The case DOES have speaker “leads”

 

2 hours ago, CDLehner said:

re-attach the leads.

This.

 

After the speaker leads are reconnected, do the PW short test again, and see if you get POST codes.

 

3 hours ago, CDLehner said:

would one of those CPU testers be worthwhile?

They're handy to have if you play with PC's, but if it's only for this exercise, I don't think you need one at this point.

UPDATE - I don't know what I mistook, for speaker leads; but there are none. Get a speaker?

 

FTR...hooked up the power-button leads, and they work. Also...FWIW...realized I forgot to pull the unOS off the USB I/O.

 

EDIT- Piezo on its way.

Edited September 3, 20223 yr by CDLehner

On 8/31/2022 at 6:38 AM, ConnerVT said:

A foolish thought:  The MB in my server has twice thrown this at me.

 

Wouldn't boot, no power no matter what I tried.  Stripped it down, different power supply, reset BIOS via jumper, etc.

 

I pulled out the CMOS battery to check voltage, was OK.  Put it back in the MB and SUCCESS - Powered right up.  Happened again a few months later, same fix.

 

Sometimes the answer is obvious.  Sometimes, it is the stupidest thing...

 

I'm keeping this in mind Conner. Thx