Has anybody run into this issue with the WD White Label drives?
I thought I'd share my ordeal just in case anyone else stumbles upon this problem. Had a helluva time finding this issue online for some reason.
I recently found the need for more storage space and after researching a bit, chose the 8TB EasyStore from Best Buy for shucking. I drove on over, it was $200, great stuff. Came home, followed a visual guide to take it apart, also easy and quick! I noticed it had a white label, which seemed odd, but whatever, this was the drive, right? Made in Thailand with 256MB cache, that's the one!
So I removed an older drive from my computer and stuck this one in, only to find it didn't spin up. Crap. I googled around for awhile only to find that this model is the WD80EMAZ rather than the expected WD80EFZX. A lot of forums had people saying they were the same drive, same specs, everything... anyway, I thought maybe it was the PSU I was using (I had to RMA my newer one, using a much older one) so I reassembled the WD and used DC power. Worked immediately. I noticed a couple people on reddit and slickdeals complaining that these drives wouldn't power on with SATA and only worked externally, but tons of other people saying "no problems here I have 3/6/51824 of these in my tower since [the big bang] and they're fine."
I really didn't want to reassemble it and go back to Best Buy to exchange it for... what, maybe another of the same? Maybe a real red? The box doesn't list which internal drive you're getting. So I kept searching and found this PDF from HGST, a company WD owns detailing a "power disable feature" found on some of their drives. This feature uses the 3.3V pin to send a hard reset signal to the drive, a pin which I believe was never utilized by hard drives before this. Anyway, as the PDF states, my PSU was basically forcing the drive into a constant "reset" state, preventing it from spinning up at all. The external board it came with must just bypass this.
My "solution" was to pull the 3.3V (orange) wire from that particular sata connector and cap/tape it off (shown in linked pics). Look at that, immediately spun up and working. I've seen other people say use a molex to sata adapter as that also ignores the 3.3V line, but I've also seen a lot of posts about these melting, so do with that what you will.
Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to make it work in my NORCO SS-500's.