JonathanM

FTP is an ancient protocol, and rather insecure even at its best. I recommend finding another way of accomplishing what you want to do.

Not all SMART errors are equal, but that particular one looks pretty bad. You could run a SMART extended test to get more info, but I would plan on replacing it.

Try changing filesystem type to XFS, run a check and post the results, if no good outcome, we can try changing to ReiserFS and see if the results are any better. Leave the -n so we just get a view of what may happen, it won't commit any changes.

You can't run the check if it is mounted. It must be unmounted to check it.

Well, the screenshot proves me wrong on the ReiserFS theory, and it also shows data that you probably want to keep on the 500GB drive, so removing it without copying the data elsewhere probably isn't what you want. Have you run the filesystem check on disk1 with the new version of Unraid in maintenance mode yet?

Do you have the disk filesystems set as auto or did you force it to XFS? It won't hurt anything to set them as ReiserFS just to see if they mount, just don't ever click the format button if it asks.

Do you have a screenshot or diagnostics from when it was working?

The drives won't even attempt to mount in maintenance mode.

No, unless you find a bug that allows it, in which case it needs to get fixed ASAP. Use the password manager built in to your browser, or a good third party one like Bitwarden (Vaultwarden available as a self hosted solution).

I had a read through your post history, and this one stuck out to me. As I commented back then, a move from disk to disk will NOT be instant, it will take a significant amount of time. I'm wondering if your disks ever really got converted.

I had another thought. Are you POSITIVE the drives were formatted as XFS? Such an old install, with such small drives, I would have expected them to be ReiserFS. If Unraid got reset somehow, and was trying to mount them as XFS, that would explain some of the weirdness.

Those two steps sort of cancel each other out. If the 500GB drive is already empty (pre-requisite of the clear drive part) then you should just rebuild parity without the 500GB drive.

No, you can use pools just as easily. That's excluding all user generated data? That's rather large for just OS and program data, what does this VM hold? In my opinion, if you truly need VM primary drives larger than 265GB, then I would add the 1TB (1gb typo?) as an additional pool, dedicated to just the VM(s) primary vdisk(s). (domains share) Then you can use your current cache drive as storage for appdata and system shares, and as a temporary home for work in progress. Use the storage array for finished work, archives, and reference materials. You could set up a share for WIP, and set it to cache only, then when the project is done move it to a cache yes share to transfer to the array when mover runs overnight.

11 Amps per pin is the rated maximum for the connector itself. How many drives is a more complex question, and depends on the rating of the PSU, the upstream connectors involved, wire gauge, etc. You should try to divide your drives as evenly as possible between the available PSU leads.

You can run bedrock on a Windows 10 PC, you just have to select that version instead of the java one. https://www.minecraft.net/en-us/store/minecraft-java-bedrock-edition-pc

Try removing / disabling that and see if the behaviour changes.

That was the point. It's used to pass hardware directly into a VM, instead of emulating the resource in software. Most common use is a video card, where you have a monitor directly connected to the card in the server, and when you start the VM, it shows on the attached monitor. If you don't need it, no point in enabling it.

You can also access it remotely all the normal ways you would remotely work with a regular PC, be it remote desktop, nomachine, whatever remote access client you wish to install on the VM, just like you would any other PC.

Please post the raw XML from the working windows VM.

Compare the generated XML VM profiles between what works and what doesn't.

Format the drive with Rufus Then complete the manual install process.

@jonp

Should be ok if the temp swing is minimal. What you want to avoid is constantly cycling between 30 and 50. Many times people set their drives to spin down, and they cool down to room temp, then when they spin up they cycle all the way back up. If you can't reduce the top side of the temperature swing, make sure the low side is consistently close to the high side. Much preferred to keep the cycling between 35 and 40 if you can manage it though. The drive is rated to be OK up to 65, but it will kill it in a hurry if you cycle from 20 to 65 every few hours.

You edited your post days after you posted and added a link. Stop doing that.