Lolight

The PSU. You'd need to replace it anyways. Soon.

"The second batch of Storaxa will be available for ordering on October 1st, 2023 - 10am(EST). There will be different shipping options available from 3 business days to 14 days. Customers will receive a confirmation email with the tracking number." https://www.arrotrack.com/store So... They've shown no real finished product to date. Have offered to send an AMD sample unit to NASCompares for a review but then decided to delay. The funds are still locked by Stripe with no concrete date on when they'll be released. Yet now offer their "second batch" for sale.

Not needed.

PSUs do "wear" down over time as opposed to CPUs and RAM. Get at least Tier B, mid-range model from the list, in the smallest capacity you can find. https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

Because it's still a prevalent but IMO probably outdated way of thinking, especially in the view of power efficiency. As applied to the vast majority of consumer NAS users, running SATA drives... I think the biggest reason for their popularity is based on the HBA's uniform build quality since it's "server-grade" hardware. But it's largely an outdated tech, that is guaranteed to mess up modern consumer hardware by disabling CPU's power management features (higher C-States). HBAs on their own also suffer from relatively high power consumption which often leads to overheating when placed in consumer cases - usually solved by adding an aftermarket dedicated fan to keep its temps in check. On the other hand, the SATA card market is hugely fragmented, mostly cheaply built and marketed by off brand vendors, with largely varying build quality. But the right card will preserve your system's ability to sip power at idle, perform just as well as the motherboard's SATA controller, not consume much power on its own without any requirement for additional cooling. When shopping you'd need to pay attention to the PCIe card controller chip and overall configuration - look for the card that is built based on the ASM1166 chip. Most of them normally come with an outdated firmware, which can be "usually" re-flashed with an update that is maintained by Silverstone since their cards are based on the same chip. https://www.silverstonetek.com/en/product/info/expansion-cards/ECS06/ And yeah, you'd need to be really selective and look for the card's user feedback prior to deciding on which one to choose. e.g. @Gragorg seem to be satisfied with his model. You could also get guaranteed quality by going with the card built by Silverstone, but it comes at a much higher price point: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-ECS06-Non-RAID-Express/dp/B08Y64R5WV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1HQAJ4FKTZE37&keywords=silverstone+ECS06&qid=1695977101&sprefix=silverstone+ecs06%2Caps%2C375&sr=8-1

Yeah, but why would the OP be concerned with TDP (thermal design power) as applicable to his use case? To make his system more power efficient? There's a common misconception that a lower TDP CPU would always be more efficient as compared to a higher TDP equivalent.

It should be sufficient for light loads. btw, I'd advise to replace the PSU with a newer, known quality model.

It can not. The process would require an installed in the socket CPU. If you purchase the 13100 and the board comes with the outdated BIOS then you'd need to borrow a 12th gen processor just to run a BIOS update.

While idling (no activity with reading and writing anything), all of my USB 3.0 drives run significantly warmer to touch, as compared to the USB 2.0 ones. IMO, the USB 3.0 consumer flash devices are not designed with long-term durability in mind as is the case of being constantly (24/7) connected to a power source in the always-on Unraid NAS.

All depends on your system configuration and components. Intel is the default choice for power efficient systems.

None at idle, if your system is capable of and configured to achieve higher C-States.

You'd probably need to update that motherboard's BIOS for it to become compatible with the 13100. You might want to downgrade to the 12100 if you don't want to deal with that.

A good advice on placing HDDs in anti-static bags when in storage - also keeping them away from direct sunlight and wide temperature swings. If stored for a long time, then they would need to be periodically spun up for a few minutes, preferably once a year.

As @trurl has already mentioned, add enough of HDD space in bigger disks to hold your existing data. Don't add every disk to the array unless you start running out of room. Your proposed motherboard will have 6 SATA ports. If you don't need to use more than 6 disks at the moment then connect them to the mobo and save on electricity. You will always be able to add the HBA card later on.

Welcome! An enclosure cabinet for your server? Or you meant to ask about my preference for a computer case? The main reason for my preference for a regular, non hot swap case is, in general, significantly less restricted air flow as compared to a similarly sized hot-swap. The hot-swap's convenience doesn't make much of a difference to me since I don't move HDDs around all that often. Another reason is the hot-swap's use of back planes - just another potential point of failure.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

Spaceinvader One: "In this video, I embark on a creating the World's Smallest Unraid Server. Using a single board computer – the ZimaBoard – this compact powerhouse consumes a mere 6W, making it both eco-friendly and efficient."

The 3.3V pin problem is generally known to affect WDs. Or at least I'm not aware of it being reported on Seagates nearly as widely as it happens with WDs.

Just in case, since you haven't mentioned your source of the purchase. If buying new (or even used), try to get one from a higher volume and generally more reputable seller. When buying "New" it's real tempting to go with the lowest price listings from unknown stores. The problem with that would be that you won't know (or rather have much higher uncertainty) about their source of inventory, its storage and handling conditions. And if the prices are real low they might even be outright scammers re-selling a previously sold product as new.

@jit-010101 wasn't particularly happy with those, according to this post:

👍 👍 https://forum.jellyfin.org/

Well, it looks like you already know the answer - it's an actively deteriorating drive that should be replaced ASAP.